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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
3
Západní špička
Southeast chimney to the platform and from there, chimney right to the hole (clock), then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jižní kříž
From the north, a chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the northeast edge to… Rock Climbing
2+
Jižní kříž
From the south, a chimney between the tower and the massif, then up a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Západní špička
From the massif, descend gullies to the platform. Jump (or 2m lower, a step over or drop)… Rock Climbing
3
Západní špička
Southeast chimney to the platform and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Řádný občan
From the massif, a deep jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Řádný občan
On the left in the uphill wall, over the shaft to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Řádný občan
On the right in the uphill wall, chimneying between the massif and the tower to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Západní špička
Northwest chimney to the saddle. Briefly chimney right and the edge to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
4+
Řádný občan
From the massif, descend 3m via a crack and then a drop from a standing position to the… Rock Climbing
3
Deštníková věž (Paraple)
Southeast wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Řádný občan
From the uphill side to a ledge and traverse left into a depression in the north wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Řádný občan
At the left valley edge upwards to a ledge and traverse right into a crack. Follow that… Rock Climbing
5+
Řádný občan
In the north wall, crack directly to the clock and then the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zelený pepř
In the east wall, diagonally right to a balcony in the valley wall and then build your… Rock Climbing
3
Zelený pepř
Chimney between the tower and the sub-summit, then up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Starosta
On the right in the south wall to a balcony and then a sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Starosta
A chimney by opposition between the tower and the massif into the Official Route. Follow… Rock Climbing
4-
Starosta
From the massif descend to the ledge. Drop from a (standing) position and then up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Starosta
Uphill wall to the ring and then a wall diagonally right into the Old Route. Follow that… Rock Climbing
5+
Starosta
In the valley wall, a crack and gully to a balcony (ring). Wall first straight, then left… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Spálený hrad
In the center of the SW face, go up the wall across 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dolní hrádek
In the valley wall, an overhanging crack leads to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dolní hrádek
On the uphill edge, chimneying between the tower and the massif, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Spálený hrad
Descend to the right in the massif along the edge and jump to the fore-summit. Descend… Rock Climbing
2+
Spálený hrad
Descend to the left in the massif via the wall and gully. Overhang and chimney, then up… Rock Climbing
4-
Dolní hrádek
In the east wall, a chimney leads to a rocky ledge and then a wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Spálený hrad
Like the Old Route, use the gully a few meters upwards and then right across the balcony… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Spálený hrad
To the right of the Rough Crack, go along the edge across 2 rings to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Spálený hrad
In the valley (W) face, use the corner crack and the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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