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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Poustevník
Along the western edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left into the crack and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Bochník
Via cracks and the wall to the southern edge to the 1st ring and along the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Panic
Up the east wall to the ledge, then via a build-up and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Bochník
Via the small hill. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce cyklostezky
From the NE crack to the overhang (1st ring). Traverse right under the overhang and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Poustevník
In the middle of the SE wall, follow the crack into the hole. Then, via the crack and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
1
Strážce cyklostezky
Along the overgrown plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
11
Věž Otty Černého
Through the center of the wall (starting at the right edge) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Věž Otty Černého
Right to the western edge and across the small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Věž Otty Černého
Along the valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Věž Otty Černého
In the gorge between Otto Černý Tower and Skopec via a squeeze chimney and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Ovce
Along the 'Dovolenková cesta' (Holiday Route) to a ledge and right up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Ovce
The ascent starts near the north edge. Up the wall under the overhang and traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Ovce
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to the ring. Traverse the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Večernice
Along the Old Route to Skopce up to a large platform. Up the wall along the southern edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Večernice
From the crag on the valley (NE) side in the left part of the wall via a crack to its end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skopec
Up the wall to a platform, along it left to a crack and via that to the balcony. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Skopec
From Otto Černý Tower via a double crack to the ring, up the wall to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Večernice
In the middle of the north wall via a crack to its end and right to the large clock. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skopec
Along the Old Route to a large platform. Left up the wall over the overhang to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skopec
In the right part of the SW wall along the gash and right up the wall to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Skopec
The ascent starts in the inner space. Right into the window and via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Skopec
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack (from the window, part of the Angel Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
3
Pralinka
From the upland crag traverse along the ramp left and via the chimney to the false summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pralinka
Up the Old Route chimney for two meters, right traverse along the ledge to the pine tree… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pralinka
Up the valley chimney (birch) to the false summit. Up the wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Skopec
From SE via the chimney to a large platform with pines and then traversing through the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Panenka
In the left part of the upland wall, traverse through a window to the opposite side, via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Panenka
Left of the upland edge via a wide crack to a ledge, with prominent holes traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hrošík
In the upper wall via cracks and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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