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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Hrošík
In the upper wall via cracks and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kapucín
Middle of the valley wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall right into a crack, through it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kapucín
From the upper inner space via the chimney to a small ledge in the wall of the outer rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tučňák
From the west via a conical chimney to the pre-summit. By step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tučňák
From the east via a corner crack to the pre-summit and by the West Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Amfora
From the east, out of the passable chimney by stemming onto a block. By building/aid to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Trio
In the corner on the plateau side via a short chimney to the crack, then along it to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hladká
From the plateau fore-rock via a crack, traverse right along the wall and via a chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Paličák
From the plateau side via a conical chimney up to its narrowing. By crawling through to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jidáš
Via the plateau chimney to the block, via the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Datel
From the plateau side via a 'sokolík' crack to the small pillar. Traverse right in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Datel
To the right from the plateau side with a step-over, along the ledge to the right and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kačer Donald
From the upper gorge via a wide crack to the false summit. Then by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rytíř
From the upper gorge, broken crack to the pre-summit. Creeping path to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sultán
In the upper gorge near the left corner, crack to the block. Traverse in the chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Rytíř
The ascent starts on the boulders at the NE corner of the tower. Crack under the overhang… Rock Climbing
4-
Rytíř
NE chimney and crack left to the platform. Crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rytíř
In the left part of the SW wall, cracks to the pillar and via the Lords of the Rose route… Rock Climbing
6-
Rytíř
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall, crack and wall to the clock. Traverse the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková
Along the left upper edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídková
From the upper gorge, chimney to the saddle. Short overhanging crack to the splinter.… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková
In the corner on the SW side, wide crack to the ring. Crack in the corner to the saddle.… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková
NE crack to the end, wall left and corner crack to the blocks. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Bota
From the west, via a chimney to a ledge, then by stemming and an overhang into another… Rock Climbing
3
Kukla
From the upper (plateau) gorge, via a chimney in a corner to a balcony. Then by the face… Rock Climbing
3
Hrobník
From the NW, via an inner chimney to a plateau. To the left via the face to the second… Rock Climbing
3
Hrobník
In the left part of the NW face, via a system of cracks to the second plateau, then to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Netopýr
From the NE, via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. Below it, traverse the face to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Kardinál
From the through-chimney from Katolík (from NE), via a traverse chimney and stemming to… Rock Climbing
5
Hektor
Along the NW edge to a ring. Climbing up from a stance (or sling/seat), then via a small… Rock Climbing

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