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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
4
Skalpel
North of Skalpel, from the chimney between the outer rocks, a twin crack to a flake of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrošík
West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Srubová
In the right part of the valley wall, up the chimney to the ring. Up the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Geraldina
From the valley side by opposition to the 1st ring and left via a crack to the end at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Geraldina
From Srubová, descend via the Painter's Path to the ledge below the summit. Right via an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Srubová
From the gorge via the chimney and opposition to the 1st and 2nd rings. By building … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vokurek
From the upper side to the right edge and via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Langoš
By opposition to the block. Right behind the edge to the ring and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Langoš
From the S edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Geraldina
In the corner on the upper (SW) side, through a system of chimneys to the block. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vokurek
NE chimney to the fore-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Cimburek
Left part of the upper wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Cimburek
Start of route "Bermuda Triangle" and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Langoš
South crack to the block and left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Slunečník
Up the overgrown east face to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolohnát
From the NE chimney into a crack and right, by stepping over, to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Brusínek
From the upper left (S) edge traverse left to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Brusínek
Left upper edge n. v. (likely an abbreviation for 'nahoru' or 'nahoru volně' - freely… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brusínek
Middle of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kolohnát
Via the 'From the West' route to Čučo into the saddle, by traverse over pillars and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lili
Via the plateau chimney to the pillar, step-over and right to the south edge, then up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Marlen
From the ledge by crack to the ring and to the right descend by wall to the Valley Route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lili
From the east via chimney to blocks, by building/aid and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čůčo
Via a conical chimney to a block, over it left to the saddle and by wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dafné
To the left from the valley side by stemming, crack (2 rings) and chimney to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Marlen
In the left part of the valley wall by crack to a ledge, then right along it and by crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dafné
In the right part of the east face from the gorge to the left along a retreating crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dafné
From the plateau foreground to the left by step-over to the corner crack and then up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dafné
To the right on the plateau side by crack to a platform. By step-over and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dafné
From the plateau foreground along the edge to a block and over it by traverse to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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