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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Perla
Between Pearl and Giraffe via chimney and stemming to a small balcony (1st ring). From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Žirafa
From the south, to the left along a crack (ring) into a hole and by West Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žirafa
In the corner between Giraffe and Pearl by traverse to the valley side (also here by… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Žirafa
By Sunday Route to the 1st ring. To the right by crack (ring) to the pre-summit. By West… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Žirafa
To the left of C. Sunday hand crack to the upper part of "Nedělní" (Sunday). Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Žirafa
From the west via a corner crack into a hole. Traverse to the south side and by crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Průčelník
In the plateau wall to the right over a ramp to the ring, from the right by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pinguin
From the plateau gorge into the chimney and up it to the pillar. By building/aid and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Průčelník
To the right in the plateau wall, further right and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Chocholouš
Via the corner to the southeast fore-summit. Via an overhang/rappel and artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Achmeton
By wall along the south edge to the clock feature, traverse by wall left to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Achmeton
By crack and chimney to the pre-summit. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Chocholouš
From SW via a double crack into the window and by crawling through to the opposite side.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mahárádža
From the fore-summit via an overhang/rappel to the ledge, traverse right along it, via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Anna
From the plateau pillar (from the west) to the right from the overhang/rappel with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mahárádža
In the left part of the plateau wall via a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž tří přátel
From the plateau side via a stemming chimney to the gallery, along it to the right around… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž tří přátel
From the gallery by artificial climbing and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Brabenec
From the plateau fore-rock with significant artificial climbing to the plateau. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Psohlavec
From the valley side via a corner crack into the small cave. Via the crack into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Psohlavec
From the plateau side via a conical chimney to the pillar. Traversing along the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Brabenec
From the west, a step-over and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Dudek
Via the left plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dřevěné kladivo
On the plateau side by stemming/straddling to the 'hours' (hourglass/feature), left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Eriky
From the southern edge, traverse left along the wall to the 'sokolík' and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž Eriky
From the fore-rock from NE via an overhang/rappel (artificial climbing) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Eriky
To the left of Václavská Route (artificial climbing) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krahujec
Along the left summit edge to the large 'hours' (hourglass/feature), by artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dudek
Via the right plateau crack to the plateau. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krahujec
From SW purely by artificial climbing (or 'building up' technique) to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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