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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
4+
Mlýn
From the west, corner crack to the pre-summit. Via the Wavy Stone route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Helmuta Kohla
From the south (between Helmut Kohl Tower and Mill) crack, chimney and opposition to the… Rock Climbing
3
Mlýn
The ascent starts below the center of the SE wall. Through the chimney, which changes… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýn
Left on the SE side, opposition against a block and crack into the widening. Traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Lýdie
In the valley wall, right upwards, build into the crack and follow it (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
3
Ptáček
SW chimney and opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Karásek
NW crack (ring) to the cave, in the ledge right to the chimney, opposition and wall left… Rock Climbing
3
Krocánek
On the SW side from the boulder, traverse and wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Horníček
From the blocks between Horníček and Ptačí věž (Bird Tower) up the wall and left through… Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí
From NW, narrow chimney, higher up gully to the pre-summit. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí
SW chimney to the pillar and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ilse
Left in the gorge-chimney to the pillar. Traverse and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Prvnička
SE chimney in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Prvnička
Via the SW chimney to a block. Then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ušatec
From the SE, from the outer edge/overhang, by stepping over and then along the edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Ušatec
In a corner on the NW side of the tower, via a chimney to a block. Traverse in the… Rock Climbing
4-
Larva
From the upper (plateau) side, by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Divná
At the right upper (plateau) corner, by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Krajánek
From the gorge (from Mlynář), via a chimney to a pine tree. Traverse in the chimney to… Rock Climbing
4+
Krajánek
To the left of the start of the Southwest Edge route, via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mlynář
The ascent starts in the gorge below the left part of the NW face. Via a chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Katolík
From the NW, to the left via a narrow chimney to a pillar. Then by a crack to a plateau… Rock Climbing
5
Achilles
From the fore-rock (or lower part of the rock) to the right of the north edge, via a… Rock Climbing
5
Katolík
From the south by stemming to the 1st and 2nd ring, which is placed in the wall of the… Rock Climbing
4
Skopeček
Via a chimney from the East to a pillar, then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Varhanní píšťala
Via the SW chimney and to the right by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní píšťala
From Katolík by descending, then traversing and to the left via a crack to the edge. Then… Rock Climbing
2
Kinematograf
To the right in the upper (plateau) face, via a muddy gully to a pillar. Along the east… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kachnička
Right in the NW face via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kachnička
Left of route "Kilo nám zbylo" via a wide crack and chimney. Finish via route … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route

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