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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Dudek
From NE along the overgrown wall to the ledge, via the diagonal chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Světec
From the ledge on the valley side via the wall along the north ridge (2 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Světec
From the block from the south with a step-over and a laid edge to the ring. Briefly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malý pytel mouky
From the upper side (from SW) descend via a crack, step over and bridge to the bolt. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pekelný kotel
In the western corner via a chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velký pytel mouky
From the valley via the green chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pekelný kotel
To the right on the south wall via a crack and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velký pytel mouky
From the upper massif by stepping over, then via the wall to the left and up the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Neforemná
From the upper side traverse left to the NW ridge and over the grassy patches to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mlýnské kolo
Via the SW crack to the false summit. Step over and right via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Mlýnské kolo
Climb through the chimney to the W ridge. Via a short wider crack to the false summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mlýnské kolo
Via the NE chimney to the false summit. Aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Neforemná
In the middle of the upper wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Judy
Via the chimney between Devil's Throne and Judy for about 10 m, then right via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Judy
From the boulder near the SE wall, by standing on the pulpit. By standing left and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ďáblův trůn
From the NE via a chimney to the false summit and without aid climbing via the "Pekelná"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ďáblův trůn
From the upper gorge, from the right corner, traverse right along the wall into a gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ďáblův trůn
Left on the SW wall via a system of cracks to the 1st bolt. Along the small crack to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nefertiti
Via the NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Katrin
From the SW via a chimney to the saddle between Katrin and Smrtka. Then via the rib and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Katrin
Via the right valley crack to the saddle between Katrin and Smrtka. Then by the Lečo… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tutanchámon
From the NW via the falcon crack left to the bolt. Step left into the next crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Mlýnská myš
Aid climbing and via the south ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mlynářka
The ascent starts from the SW from the edge. By descending, from the overhang via aid… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnská myš
Via the SW wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bonifác
From the west via a chimney into a split. Aid climbing and from the right via the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Smrtka
From the upper side via a chimney between Smrtka and the adjacent rock. Step left onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Služka
From SE, from the upper gorge, build into a wide chimney and opposition to the ring. From… Rock Climbing
4-
Barnabáš
From the upper side, build and along the edge to the plateau. Left by crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Mládek
Upper chimney to the pre-summit and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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