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Climbing at Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem

212 routes
107 areas
1–11 grades

Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 210 routes on 107 smaller towers – for example Skopec, Dafné, Moravská brána, Žirafa, Zámělská and Kvakinger. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Rokle nad Spáleným mlýnem has 212 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 107 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Skopec 7 routes Dafné 5 routes Moravská brána 5 routes Žirafa 5 routes Zámělská 5 routes Kvakinger 5 routes Rytíř 5 routes Kinematograf 5 routes Věž Otty Černého 4 routes Vyhlídková 4 routes Kachnička 3 routes Ovce 3 routes Kapucín 3 routes Brusínek 3 routes Pralinka 3 routes Věž Eriky 3 routes Večernice 3 routes Mlýnské kolo 3 routes Langoš 3 routes Pivní skaut 3 routes Ďáblův trůn 3 routes Geraldina 3 routes Dudek 3 routes Mlýn 3 routes Judy 2 routes Marlen 2 routes Hrošík 2 routes Achmeton 2 routes Varhanní píšťala 2 routes Diktát 2 routes Chocholouš 2 routes Mahárádža 2 routes Hrobník 2 routes Vokurek 2 routes Kolohnát 2 routes Pekelný kotel 2 routes Tučňák 2 routes Krahujec 2 routes Průčelník 2 routes Bochník 2 routes Prvnička 2 routes Věž tří přátel 2 routes Neforemná 2 routes Brabenec 2 routes Ptačí 2 routes Ušatec 2 routes Datel 2 routes Katolík 2 routes Lili 2 routes Krajánek 2 routes Světec 2 routes Psohlavec 2 routes Velký pytel mouky 2 routes Srubová 2 routes Poustevník 2 routes Katrin 2 routes Mlýnská myš 2 routes Cimburek 2 routes Strážce cyklostezky 2 routes Krasobruslař 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Mlynář 1 route Kardinál 1 route Jidáš 1 route Paličák 1 route Hladká 1 route Ilse 1 route Pinguin 1 route Dřevěné kladivo 1 route Anna 1 route Smrtka 1 route Skalpel 1 route Policajt 1 route Holka kozatá 1 route Kukla 1 route Věž Helmuta Kohla 1 route Krocánek 1 route Skopeček 1 route Ptáček 1 route Bonifác 1 route Larva 1 route Karásek 1 route Lýdie 1 route Bota 1 route Slunečník 1 route Barnabáš 1 route Panic 1 route Malý pytel mouky 1 route Netopýr 1 route Hrbatá 1 route Hektor 1 route Perla 1 route Sultán 1 route Tutanchámon 1 route Trio 1 route Mravenečník 1 route Čůčo 1 route Služka 1 route Amfora 1 route Horníček 1 route Kačer Donald 1 route Mládek 1 route Achilles 1 route Divná 1 route Nefertiti 1 route Mlynářka 1 route Sírová věž 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Krasobruslař
From the upper (plateau) terrace, via an open corner over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Krasobruslař
Along the north edge over a ring and a ring from an old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Kinematograf
To the left in the NW face, via an overhang from a boulder into a hanging crack and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Kinematograf
To the left in the valley face, via a corner to a pillar, then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Kinematograf
Right in the NW face via a small pillar (ring) to an overgrown ledge, Normal route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Kinematograf
Right of the west edge via a crack to an overgrown ledge, left via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Hrbatá
Via a crack from the valley (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Diktát
Up the valley wall (3 rings) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Diktát
Along the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Policajt
Up the wall along the western edge, past 3 rings, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zámělská
From the plateau side (from S) via a slanting chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Zámělská
From the E to the fore-rock, left over the hole to the 1st ring, up the vertical gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zámělská
In the left part of the NE wall to the 1st ring. Via the overhanging crack (2nd ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zámělská
From the west in the middle of the wall on the slope, follow the small crack to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zámělská
Through the right part of the NE wall via a crack (2 rings) and small pillars to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Through the chimney from the SW to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Right of the S edge via a crack and wall (ring) to the overgrown balcony and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Along the southern edge of the wall to the ring, further to the overgrown balcony, and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Moravská brána
Through the center of the SW wall along the small pillars (2 rings), from the 2nd Q … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Moravská brána
Through the chimney between the towers to the end, and then step over to the main tower.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mravenečník
From NW from the gorge via a crack to the balcony (birch). With substantial building into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kvakinger
Up the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kvakinger
Up the valley crack and then the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kvakinger
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvakinger
Up the upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kvakinger
Up the upland left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pivní skaut
Left in the upland gorge via a crack to a block. Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pivní skaut
In the SW wall via shallow cracks to the end, up the wall right to the ring of route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sírová věž
In the NE gorge via opposition, building (artificial aid), and crack to the pillar at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pivní skaut
From the outer rock by descending and stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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