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Climbing at Rozštípená skála

126 routes
7 areas
2–8 grades

Rozštípená skála in the Žďárské vrchy hills offers more than 120 routes on seven walls – for example Hodinář, Východní stěna, Mechová stěna, Sloní věž, Hlavní stěna and Jehla. There are overhangs and bolted sport routes, elsewhere protection is cams; grades from 2 to 8.

Part of Žďár Hills, Rozštípená skála has 126 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8. Explore its 7 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends, Sport Climbing, Overhang.

Rules

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature conservation document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

Parking

49.56792, 15.88850

4
Sloní věž
Up along the right edge of the tower. Rock Climbing
4
Sloní věž
Approach 'Slůně', then right to a prominent crack, climb diagonally right and up over the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4+
Sloní věž
Across the face on the flank, diagonally left, we cross Láďa's crack and via an open… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
2
Sloní věž
Approach behind the right edge of the tower's front face. Long traverse left upwards to a… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
3
Sloní věž
Via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3-
Sloní věž
Up the middle of the right wall and along the crack. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4
Sloní věž
On the right side of the wall, there is a vertical crack. Climb it with difficulty… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sloní věž
In the middle of the front part of the tower, overhangs are intersected by an overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sloní věž
From the corner, with difficulty over an overhang, under another overhang, and over it… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
3+
Sloní věž
Along the right edge of the Elephant Tower to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sloní věž
In the left part of the front wall of the tower there are prominent overhangs. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sloní věž
Through the Sokolík crack under the overhang, to the right and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
6
Sloní věž
Hard through the middle of the overhang onto the smooth slab, into a corner under another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sloní věž
Up the wall to the right of Sokolík, across the hole to the ledge, left over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sloní věž
Up the small pillar to the left, over the overhang, and via the small wall to the ramp. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4+
Sloní věž
Start 1m left of the falcon's crack, diagonally left upwards over the overhang onto the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4-
Trpasličí stěna
Up the right part of the wall. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
2
Sloní věž
Through the gully between the Dwarf Wall and the Elephant Tower along its bottom, and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sloní věž
From the prominent ramp on Elephant Tower (at the completion point of Sokolík route) a… Rock Climbing
4-
Trpasličí stěna
In the right part of the Dwarven Wall, there are prominent chips and teeth. Directly over… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4+
Trpasličí stěna
Up the edge between the Main and Dwarf Wall, then a difficult traverse left into easier… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5-
Trpasličí stěna
Approach 2m to the right of the edge, via the slab to the crack, onto the ledge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Hlavní stěna
Up the wall from the right, along the chipped block below the overhang. Left onto the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4
Trpasličí stěna
In the middle of the wall, there are small flakes transitioning into a vertical crack.… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Hlavní stěna
Up the overhanging chimney, step left and onto the small balcony. Hard going upwards… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hlavní stěna
Over the overhanging wall, under the overhang, to the horizontal crack. Then traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hlavní stěna
Over the overhangs to the left of the enclosed chimney into the wall and directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8
Hlavní stěna
Over the face from the left along the chipped block under the overhang and then over it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Hlavní stěna
Ascent from the right onto the block, across the overhang, along an indistinct edge into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Hlavní stěna
Across overhangs and along the edge of teeth (or jagged edges) onto a shelf in the wall,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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