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Climbing at Rozštípená skála

126 routes
7 areas
2–8 grades

Rozštípená skála in the Žďárské vrchy hills offers more than 120 routes on seven walls – for example Hodinář, Východní stěna, Mechová stěna, Sloní věž, Hlavní stěna and Jehla. There are overhangs and bolted sport routes, elsewhere protection is cams; grades from 2 to 8.

Part of Žďár Hills, Rozštípená skála has 126 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8. Explore its 7 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends, Sport Climbing, Overhang.

Rules

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature conservation document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

Parking

49.56792, 15.88850

3
Východní stěna
Up a prominent winding crevice. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5+
Východní stěna
By the right edge of the chimney to the ledge and further to the summit platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
Up a prominent wall with horizontal cracks below an overhang, then traversing right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
With difficulty over the overhang and the central belay, directly upwards through eroded… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Východní stěna
Up the right wall of the chimney along the cracks and with difficulty onto the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Východní stěna
From the hole, up the slab over two small overhangs directly upwards. Variant: IV. Above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Východní stěna
Upwards by the distinctive chimney on its left side. Ascent through the interior of the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
Along the left overhanging edge of the chimney, slightly to the right and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
From the hole, over the overhang (bolt), using a heel hook onto the face (bolt), and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3-
Východní stěna
Start below a prominent crack. Left of the pockets, after 5m step left (bolt) onto a… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4+
Východní stěna
Up the wall to the left of Žížalka, past the bolt upwards. Variant: Via the left part of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Východní stěna
Along the seam upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Východní stěna
Start at Žížalka (Little Worm), approximately 1m above the ground and water, traverse… Rock Climbing
3+
Východní stěna
By a wall on the hillside. Rock Climbing
3+
Východní stěna
With a peripheral sharp corner to the left on the slope. Rock Climbing
2
Mechová stěna
Between the Moss Wall and the Main Wall, there is a prominent chimney. We overcome its… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5-
Mechová stěna
Up the fall line of the smooth slab directly to the summit (protection from the Mešák… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mechová stěna
A prominent crack in the corner leading towards the window, from there traverse left over… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
3+
Mechová stěna
On the upper part of the Moss Wall, there is a block that has an overhang at the back.… Rock Climbing
5
Mechová stěna
Along the arched edge of the block over a small overhang (loose rock) to a window and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mechová stěna
In the right part of the Moss Wall, with an indistinct corner upwards and slightly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Mechová stěna
Along a prominent smooth vein/rib in the middle of the wall, diagonally right upwards to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mechová stěna
A prominent crack in the left part of the Mossy Wall to a ledge, then along good… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4+
Mechová stěna
Through the middle of the block via a diagonal crack and several holes to the window,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Mechová stěna
In the middle of the wall there are prominent teeth. In their fall line, slightly from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mechová stěna
Start 2m to the right of Jirka's crack, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mechová stěna
In the right part of the side wall of the block over fine strips and to the top. Purely F… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mechová stěna
In the left part of the block's side wall, a difficult reach through a sharp hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mechová stěna
Up the right edge of the Moss Wall, laboriously to the ledge, over the overhang and along… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Mechová stěna
Across the entire Main Wall, there is an approximately 20cm wide vein. We start by the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay

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