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Climbing at Rozštípená skála

126 routes
7 areas
2–8 grades

Rozštípená skála in the Žďárské vrchy hills offers more than 120 routes on seven walls – for example Hodinář, Východní stěna, Mechová stěna, Sloní věž, Hlavní stěna and Jehla. There are overhangs and bolted sport routes, elsewhere protection is cams; grades from 2 to 8.

Part of Žďár Hills, Rozštípená skála has 126 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8. Explore its 7 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends, Sport Climbing, Overhang.

Rules

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature conservation document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

Parking

49.56792, 15.88850

5
Hlavní stěna
Hard going over overhangs into the wall to the left of two prominent rock teeth, above… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3-
Hlavní stěna
From the front onto the block below the chimney, which is closed at the bottom by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
7
Hlavní stěna
Between the Železná and Matlafika routes, with a tricky traverse under the overhang,… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavní stěna
Start into the overhang from the right, from the block in the recess. Traverse left in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hlavní stěna
With difficulty over the small overhang into the smooth slab, then over a larger overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Hlavní stěna
From under the large overhang on the right, very forcefully over it onto the ledge, along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
5
Hlavní stěna
Over the wall under the overhangs, slightly to the right, heavily over them and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Hlavní stěna
The overhang of the Main Wall is cut by a vertical crack. Difficultly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hlavní stěna
To the right of the chimney, with difficulty over an indistinct block, along a rounded… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Jehla
To the right of the path, that is a prominent, protruding block. The approach is under… Rock Climbing
4+
Jehla
Start on the right edge of the block, diagonally across it to the point on the edge of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jehla
A short route via several cracks to the platform to the right of the Needle. Rock Climbing
5
Jehla
From the path between the Needle and the Moss Wall, across a horizontal crack and a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Jehla
Up a wide chimney between the Needle and the Mossy Wall to the summit of the Needle.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
Přeskok
Jehla
From the summit of the Needle, a leap into a prominent window in the Moss Wall, and over… Rock Climbing
5+
Jehla
To the right of the sharp, overhanging edge of the Needle, under the overhang, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Jehla
The ascent starts with the Normal Route, but we continue along good holds in the crack up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5-
Východní stěna
Along the left edge of the wall to the right of route No. 1, towards the birch tree. Rock Climbing
2
Jehla
From the right edge of the East Wall, left along prominent ledges to the platform. Up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Východní stěna
Along the edge of the wall between the starts of the Východní Spára and Štupovačka routes… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Východní stěna
The start is along the edge/arete for about 2m shared with Samotář, then directly up via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3+
Východní stěna
At the bottom of the wall, there's an overhanging altar, from which one ascends and,… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
4
Východní stěna
Directly up the wall to the Needle's platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Východní stěna
Along the left edge of a prominent rock face to the platform of The Needle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Východní stěna
Access via a small pillar resembling sandstone, up the small wall and onto the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Východní stěna
Up the wall, step right and along the falcon crack to the platform. Variants: Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Východní stěna
About 1m to the left of the prominent zigzag crack, up the small pillar. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Východní stěna
Approach to the right of a barely noticeable indentation and slightly left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Východní stěna
An inconspicuous corner directly on the platform of the Needle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Východní stěna
Start about 2m to the right of the Eastern Crack, vertically upwards. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay

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