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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

7-/7
Svojsíkův průlez
Directly from the bivouac via an overhanging wall diagonally right, higher up along the… Fixed belay
6
Svojsíkův průlez
In the NW wall by crack through a hole to the ring. By wall to the bolt hanger and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Dragoun
In the middle of the wall from the ravine, via a corner with fissures (slings) to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Osmivěží
In the middle of the plateau wall (from the gully) from the ledge directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Centrální stěna - plotna
(Without aid, Luděk Šlechta Sr.) Under the small overhang to the left and up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Belvedér - jižní stěna
Directly up the wall over BH to the 2nd ring of route "Sandpit" and slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Belvedér - jižní stěna
Along the cut diagonally left up under the overhang (belay) and right to BH. Directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stinné masivy
Briefly via the right side wall and left over the edge into a hole. Ascend via the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Království
In the middle of the central wall to the left of the chimney, straight up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kupecká brána
From the passage to the ledge. Overhanging wall over the 1st ring into a bell-shaped… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Masivy pod lavičkou
From the 2nd bolt of route "Vy neznáte brablenci?" (Don't you know the ants?) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through the crack to the ring. By building into the chimney, it to the 2nd ring. Wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sedící býk
Wall to the ring and diagonally left into the chimney and by standing up to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Banderas
In the middle of the left valley wall of the right block, up the wall to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Brandejs
Along the route 'Jumping Virgin' to the 1st ring. Along the left narrow chimney crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Banderas
In the left part of the wall, from the ledge up the overhanging wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Černý kontinent
Along the blunt edge to the ring and through the narrow chimney to a ledge. Right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Klenba
To the left of the arch of the large overhang, via a slanted corner to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Koberák
Via the overhanging wall (bolt installed additionally) to the 1st ring. Traverse on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dragoun
From the ravine along the notches into the fissure (bolt) and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kolonáda
Left of the chimney below the abseil point to the edge, along it to the 1st and 2nd rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Along the edge past the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vřesovec
Up the small wall to the ledge. Diagonally ascending small pinnacle notch over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vřesovec
(In the left central side wall above the tourist path). From the corner, traverse along… Fixed belay Danger
6-
Vřesovec
Up the small wall to the ledge. Along the small pinnacle to the ring. Up the small wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Segal
Up the chimney of the route "Dašaša" to the ledge, along it left to a small corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vyhlídková věž
In the right part of the E wall, via a sloping slab from left to right over the bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through the chimney of the "Sad Reunion" route to the end, under the overhang to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Masiv nad silnicí - jižní stěna
Like "Drina" halfway up the crack, traverse left along the ledge to the ring, further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Austrálie
To the 1st ring of the route 'Rinsing of Unnecessary Worries', then up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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