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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

6-
Kančí stěny
In the right part of the wall, to the right of the largest corner, a system of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
11
Kančí stěny
Via the apprentice crack over the ring into the chimney. From the end of the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Království
From the bolt of the route "Don't be a nit-picker" straight up the wall to its 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Segal
In the left part of the right side wall briefly via a chimney to the ledge, along it left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hostinec
Above the tourist path by overhang and chimney/corner to the BH by wall into the hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Brandejs
In the right valley wall, directly through a large overhang into the wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Vrchol s křížem
Southwest edge to the ring. Directly to a small ledge, from the right slab to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Panteonská jehla
From the castle courtyard below the SE corner via a crack or chimney to the fore-rock.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Sitatunga
Up the wall right of the chimney to the 1st and 2nd rings. Left with a mantle behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kluziště
Like “Velký předěl” (Great Divide), up the wall and via the pillar to the rim and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Království
Through the crack close to the edge and along the edge to the ring. Along the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Sedící býk - předskalí
In the right part of the S wall over 2 rings to a small ledge. To the right past the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kluziště
From the ledge directly to the 1st ring and directly from it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kluziště
Via the crack to the small platform to the ring on the edge and along it to the courtyard. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Království
Along the edge, arête and edge to the ring, wall to the top (First edge to the right of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Poslední
In the middle of the plateau wall, over a small overhang into a small buttress. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Segal
Through the middle of the valley wall directly to the 1st ring of the route 'Run Him Down… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Segal
Up the chimney of the route "Dašaša" to the ledge, along it left to a small corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Belvedér - jižní stěna
By wall right of the start of the Photogenic Crack over the bolt to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Belvedér - jižní stěna
Directly by slab (ring) into "Students' Route" (sling) and to the ring of route "Farewell… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Klenba
Briefly like the route "Microphone Test" and right to the edge to the 1st ring, directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Párek
From the valley, left of the corner, straight up the wall over the small roof to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jery
(In the middle of the left valley wall.) From the grassy terrace along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Through the crack of the Right Route under a large overhang and to the ring. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9-
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Through the corner to a wide ramp and up the wall (ring and piton). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Through the chimney of the "Middle Route" under the overhanging chimney, left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Jery
In the middle of the right upper wall directly under the overhanging edge and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Centrální stěna - střed stěny
Directly to the 1st ring, slightly left, later right onto the ledge (sling) and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Centrální stěna - střed stěny
Up the wall directly to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up the wall directly into the "Flower Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jery
From the plateau under the passage (left side of the massif) directly up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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