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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

7/7+
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the right part of the left wall, directly over the ledge to the 1st bolt. Straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Centrální stěna - II.liga
Up the wall to the ring, directly into the iron vein (bolt added later) over the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Strážce Radnice
From the left, along the left valley edge, via the wall to the ledge towards the ring and… Fixed belay
6
Vrchol s křížem
Like the "Black Magic" route to the small plateau under the crack, step into it, under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Centrální stěna - plotna
(Route in memory of František Bauer). Up the overhanging wall (1st ring) to the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Strážce Radnice
In the middle of the left upper wall into a hole and to the ring. Via the wall to the… Fixed belay
9/9+
Centrální stěna - plotna
As "Satisfaction" to the 2nd ring, up to the ledge and left to the 3rd ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Centrální stěna - střed stěny
Up the wall (bolt) under the overhang and over it (bolt) to the ledge. As "Secret Trip" … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedící býk - předskalí
Through cracks left of the edge (hourglass) to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kupecká brána
Like the 'Right Deal' over the ring all the way to the bell, through the left open recess… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedící býk
Via rounded holds over the overhang to the 1st ring. Through cracks to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stará výcviková stěna
In the middle of the wall, through the corner of the Corner Crack route to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Afrika
In the right side wall from the small terrace over an overhang and up the wall along a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Pětichlapka
Through the strongly overhanging valley wall over a ring and bolt to the terrace. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kančí stěny
Via the route "Sklepní Karúzo" up to the ledge above the 1st ring. Along it to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Klenba
To the left of the arch of the large overhang, via a slanted corner to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kančí stěny
Left of the right edge up the wall and cracks to the holes, through them right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Klokočský průchod
To the right of the start of the tourist path stairs, over the overhang into the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tamburína
In the left part of the upper wall from the terrace by wall into a hole to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Centrální stěna - II.liga
From the 2nd ring from the left (sling) over the overhanging block and up the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masiv nad silnicí - jižní stěna
Via the slab and edge to the ring. Directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Anděl strážný
In the right side wall with a mantle onto the ledge and up the wall over a bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Domino
In the left part of the valley wall directly up the wall to the ring. Up the wall into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pětichlapka
In the right part of the left valley wall to a small crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Zlaté písky
In the right part of the wall from the grassy terrace, wall over 1 bolt and 1 ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Centrální stěna - II.liga
From the 1st K Direct of the Traverse of Sighs, right to the 1st bolt, then directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malířské rozhledy
Up the wall to the bolt and by lift to the balcony. Right and by a corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jery
In the left part of the wall from the grassy terrace, up the wall directly to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Centrální stěna - I. liga
Up the small wall and edge to the highest point of the fore-rock and a step right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Šupináč
From the block into the cave, in it right to the overhanging crack. Through it over holes… Fixed belay

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