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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

8-
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
In the left part of the Taneční sál, up the wall to the 3rd bolt. From there, down to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
Like 'Břízová' to the first step. From there, however, traverse right. Up the crack over… Rock Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
Up a fine crack to the left of the corner to the summit. Originally by unknown authors,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
5-
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
From the left side of the Taneční sál, in the upper part of Biskupská stolice, a broken… Rock Climbing
5
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
In the right part of the left wall of the Taneční sál, there is a right-leaning pillar.… Rock Climbing
4-
Biskupská stolice
Up to the pulpit above the slab like 'Old Route', from there a step to the right and an… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Biskupská stolice
The start is in the right (W) part of the Biskupská stolice wall. Follow the steps up to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
At the very beginning of the left wall of the Taneční sál, there is a vertical crack in… Rock Climbing
3
Biskupská stolice
From the middle of the wall over easy terrain, we reach the corner of the 'Old Route' and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Biskupská stolice
Up the crack in the middle (W) of the wall to a step. Across further steps to the left… Rock Climbing
3+
Biskupská stolice
Either straight up the pillar, or via the corner to a small pillar, from there straight… Rock Climbing
3
Biskupská stolice
To the small pillar just like 'Hřebenovka', from there a larger step to the right, then… Rock Climbing
2
Vyhlídková skála
Up the narrow chimney passing through the middle of the S wall. Rock Climbing
2
Dvourožec
On the left side of the right pillar along a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Dvourožec
By the right pillar (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Tibetský špendlík
By a crack in the W wall (cam) to the top free. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Tibetský špendlík
By the upper wall to the top free. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Tibetský špendlík
By the valley edge over a bolt to the top free. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Čínská opice
By the upper wall to the top free. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Kůzlátko
By the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Dvourožec
From W via an overhanging crack (bolt) and a slab to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Dvourožec
By the left pillar (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Tuzex
Over a step into a corner and through it (5 bolts) to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Jeřáb
Through the left part of the "V-Wall" (6 bolts) to the top for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Stěna nad boulderblokem
4+ About 10m right of "Late Harvest", via a chimney and a corner leading left, further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Stěna nad boulderblokem
From the terrace on the Boulder, along the right side of the recess for a few meters,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6+
Stěna nad boulderblokem
From the terrace on the Boulder, along the right side of the recess and over overhangs (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Boulderblok
Left of the Cave Chimney via an overhanging wall and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5-
Stěna nad boulderblokem
From the terrace on the Boulder, a few meters through an open recess, then diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Stěna nad boulderblokem
From the terrace on the Boulder, through an open recess, higher up via a corner (3 bolts)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun

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