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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Bertholdův prst
Left or right into the middle of the plateau wall and up the wall around the rappel ring… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Bertholdův prst
Left edge below the summit wall. Here slightly left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the rock block below the wall, via the crack that separates the pillars, to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4-
Dvojštít (Maturita) a Školka
The wall consists of several downward-sloping small pillars. The ascent leads through the… Rock Climbing
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
By corner to the top (right of the previous route) and left for rappelling. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the rock block below the wall, up the pillar over 2 bolt hooks to the top of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the right part of the wall, right of the rock block, up the pillar over 2 bolt hooks… Rock Climbing
5-
Astra (Oddychová skála)
Crack in the right part of the "trough" (over a jammed boulder) to the platform (bolt… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
Crack in the middle pillar to the "Old Route". Higher right into a wide crack and like … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the right side wall of the recess is a slightly overhanging and widening crack. Follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Astra (Oddychová skála)
The entry is the left smooth corner of the "trough" (bolt hook). Higher up then via a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4-
Malé varhany
By corner right of the flat boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the left part of the wall via a hand crack to the top. (bolt hook) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the corner diagonally down the steps along the edge and left through a short chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the grassy platform in the left part of the wall via a small corner, higher up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Malé varhany
The entry is completely to the right via a fine crack. Traverse to the pillar and up it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Malé varhany
Middle of the middle pillar over a rivet to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Malé varhany
A bit left of 'Stolová' via a vertical crack (rivet), then slightly left, back into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Velké varhany
Boulder leading up a short, vertical wall (2x rivet) on the slope behind the Great Organ. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Malé varhany
N from a flat boulder. Up a right-angled corner to the top. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
2
Malé varhany
By crack in the left side wall of the Small Organ. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Malé varhany
From the platform to the N (clock) to the edge and along it over 3 bolt hooks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velké varhany
Up the middle right of the prominent pillar to the top (glue-in bolts). Rock Climbing
4
Velké varhany
The route leads to a separate turret in the (S) part of the Great Organ. Short wall (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Velké varhany
To the right behind the previous pillar is a deep couloir. From there into the cave and… Rock Climbing
4
Velké varhany
The last pillar in the Velké varhany system has the shape of a round tower. Up the middle… Rock Climbing Danger
6
Velké varhany
Up the left wall of the left pillar of Velké varhany over a bolt to a piton and a second… Rock Climbing
6
Velké varhany
Up the left pillar in the (W) wall of Velké varhany over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velké varhany
The (W) wall of Velké varhany is formed by two prominent flutes (pillars) which create a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route leads to the left of the Valley Route. Approach from the same place as “Údolka”… Rock Climbing

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