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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Stěna vodopádu
Left side of the first pillar (3 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Stěna vodopádu
Right edge of the first pillar (4 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Stěna vodopádu
In the left part of the wall, through a corner and crack (3 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5-
Stěna vodopádu
Left side of the second pillar (7 bh) to the lowering ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Stěna vodopádu
Around the corner to the right of the first pillar (4 bh) to the lowering ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7
Výří věže - malý výr
From the 2nd belay of the Serepes route to the Great Owl, a short descent to a platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Výří věže - malý výr
To the left of the waterfall, through a corner (2 bh), then to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6+
Výří věže - velký výr
In the center of the valley wall, via a system of corners to the terrace (10 rivets).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6+
Výří věže - velký výr
In the right part of the valley wall (7 bh) to the 1st belay. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
7
Výří věže - velký výr
From the terrace from the 2nd belay of the Serepes route, along the edge (8 bh and rivets… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
Through the corner to the right of Piňdi (rivet) onto a sloping ramp (rappelling ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
2
Výří věže - velký výr
At the beginning of the large gorge to the right, further along a wide gully with trees,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Výří věže - velký výr
From the large terrace to the left over blocks to the crack. To the right along the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
7
Výří věže - velký výr
In the left part of the valley wall over steps and the left corner to a large terrace (45… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
Left part of the wall (3 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
Via the first pillar in the right part of the gorge (13 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
In the right central part of the gorge, there is a distinct smooth corner. Over a step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Čertova zahrádka
From the saddle to the left of the devil's hoof (3 rivets) to the 5th rivet of the devil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3
Kulatá bába
From the SE gorge into the saddle between the tower and the devil's fence. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Čertova zahrádka
From the saddle between the tower and the wall slab (3 rivets) to the ridge and via it (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
Left side of a distinctive corner (4 rivets) to a smooth slab (belay). Right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Velký sokol
Several meters to the right of the distinctive corner of the Mariana Trench, up a stepped… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Kulatá bába
From the saddle between the tower and the devil's garden, via the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
To the right of Centrála (Central) up the small pillar (rivet) to the right through a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Velký sokol
To the right of the bivouac up the slab (2 rivets), further through a system of small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6-
Velký sokol
Several meters from the Mariana Trench by a distinct edge (4 rivets) to a shared belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
From the bivouac through indentations and small corners, at the top up a vertical slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
Up the pillar between Hrátky s čertem (Playing with the Devil) and Nouzový východ … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7
Velký sokol
From the bivouac up a smooth slab and over roof-like overhangs (3 bolts) to the bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6+
Velký sokol
From the terrace halfway up the wall through the corner to the left of the chipped block … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun

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