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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Východní hřebenovka
Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Below 'Děčínský odkaz' through a crack in the slab, which curves to the right in the… Rock Climbing
5-
Východní stěna
N is through the corner below 'Děčínský odkaz'. Through it to a small platform behind the… Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Via a crack, later a fissure in the wall, to the right of the chimney-like crack. Rock Climbing
5
Východní stěna
Along the slanted platforms to a place where a roughly 35 m high crack is visible on the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
1
Východní hřebenovka
From the grassy ledge, ascend grassy steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Východní hřebenovka
Access from the right side of the ridge about 10 meters above its lowest point, below a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
Into the corner and over the lower overhang. N like 'Dirty'. However, we don't continue…
4
Východní stěna
Through the corner in the lower part of the wall to a wide ledge. From there, via the … Rock Climbing
4
Východní stěna
The start (N) is from where the rocks extend deepest into the forest. Via several… Rock Climbing
4
Východní stěna
Below the overhang, the start of the corner is like 'Dirty'. From there, however, a long…
5+
Východní stěna
The route leads in the upper part through a crack in the pillar that is between both rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Východní stěna
Over steps below the left rock couloirs (bounding the 'Memories of Venca' pillar on the… Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Some meters like 'Necky'. Then traverse (T) right to the pillar. Through the shallow… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5-
Východní stěna
The start (N) is some meters to the right of 'Necek'. Through the corner over 2 rocks to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Východní stěna
Over the overhang on the left side. Rock Climbing
5+
Východní stěna
Through the vertical corner to the right of 'Crown'. In the upper part, follow the wide… Rock Climbing
7
Východní stěna
To the rock like 'Snake Corner'. Then traverse (T) right to the pillar towards the bolt… Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Through a distinct, in places overhanging corner, which defines the 'zl' (likely… Rock Climbing
6-
Východní stěna
Left of the 'Crown' overhang, there's an indentation ending in a sloping slab at the… Rock Climbing
5
Východní stěna
In the very left (E) part of the wall, there is a prominent small pillar. Up it, over the… Rock Climbing
3
Zelený pilíř
Along the edge of the small pillar directly from the path to the top. (2 drilled hooks). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zelený pilíř
Through the middle of the slabby wall along the crack to the top. (2 drilled hooks). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Střední jehla
In the (E) wall, left of the chimney, up the overhanging wall to a slanted platform, then… Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
Up the small wall about 4 m to the right of 1) to a small platform and further along the… Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
To the right via a small corner crack to the 2nd bolt hanger on the SE route. Rock Climbing
5
Střední jehla
Along the (E) edge to the summit (3 bolt hangers) Rock Climbing
4
Střední jehla
Up the wall from the passage between the wall and the masonry to a slanted platform, then… Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
Start on the edge by the old masonry, then follow it to the summit (2 bolt hangers) Rock Climbing
4
Střední jehla
To the right in the (S) wall along the crack. Ascent to the summit (2 bolt hangers) Rock Climbing

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