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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Střední jehla
Up the wall from the passage between the wall and the masonry to a slanted platform, then… Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
Along the edge to the summit Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
From the (S) wall of boulders, traverse left and up the crack between the summits. Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
The middle plateau face leads a corner. Through it between the summits. (1 drilled hook) Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
To the right in the plateau face from the rock block of the middle face to the top (2… Rock Climbing
3
Střední věž
To the right of the stone wall, up the face via steps (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Střední věž
Up the corner to the stance and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Střední věž
Center of the W face under a prominent roof with a crack. Overhang into an indistinct… Rock Climbing
7+
Střední věž
Follow the Farářova neteř (Priest's Niece) route up to the 2nd bolt and then directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Střední věž
From the SW edge of the tower along a ledge, which later disappears, diagonally right… Rock Climbing
6
Střední věž
To the right in the W face, up the wall and higher up a corner to the top (5 bh) Rock Climbing
7+
Střední věž
Overhanging SW edge over 4 Bh. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Střední věž
From the middle, traverse up to a light-colored wall, up it under an overhang, diagonally… Rock Climbing
4
Střední věž
Descend the gully between the Small Tower and the Middle Tower to below the SE face. From… Rock Climbing
4
Střední věž
From the left edge of the overgrown ledge, up the wall along the edge (4 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Střední věž
From the end of the ledge at the right edge of the prominent wall, through an indentation… Rock Climbing
1
Střední věž
From the plateau side opposite the Middle Needle, along ledges to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Moai
Traverse along the east wall to the left to the crack, along it to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Moai
In the right part of the valley wall over steps along the corner to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Zubatá věž
Through a short corner to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Zubatá věž
Through a narrow chimney directly to the wedged boulder to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Zubatá věž
Through a short gully/pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
0
Zubatá věž
2 bolts, 15m, before 2008, unknown climbers Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Velfík
Along the upper SW ridge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Velfík
Through the middle of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Zubatá věž
From the start of the Slejzací chimney to the right and along the edge over the ledge to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Zubatá věž
Through a short chimney around a wedged boulder to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Zubatá věž
Via the stepped pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce
Up the west slab over a protruding boulder to a ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce
Up the overhanging (E) wall along a small crack to a bolt and to the pulpit. Over steps… Rock Climbing

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