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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

2
Rozeklaný
By a distinct corner with an opposition move n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Samuraj
By the overhanging crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Samuraj
By the overhanging W wall section n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rozeklaný
With the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rozeklaný
Access from the cave to the left edge and over the beak n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rozeklaný
By the corner next to the main pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Pavéza
Left in the slab of the N wall (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Pavéza
Left in the valley wall by a distinct gully n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pavéza
Right in the N wall, by a diagonally receding crack into the Ťapina route, two meters… Rock Climbing
1
Pavéza
Left in the N wall briefly by the corner along the cracks n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Mordor
Between Mordor and Stéla, a prominent crack in the S wall over an wedged boulder up to… Rock Climbing
3
Mordor
Through the crack to the left in the W wall under the overhanging block and from the left… Rock Climbing
8
Mordor
Via the right valley edge (2 bh) into the notch and slightly right over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mordor
Between Mordor and the massif behind Stéla, via a chimney over a wedged boulder n. v. Rock Climbing
6+
Mordor
To the left in the valley wall via the corner crack (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mordor
Through the crack between the routes "Circular Ride" and "Gollum's Den", by opposition on… Rock Climbing
9-
Mordor
Via the NW edge over 2 BH to the balcony (hours) and directly over the overhang through… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
2
Mordor
From the N, via an overhanging pedestal onto a sloping ledge and around the TomVik cave n… Rock Climbing
5
Mordor
Via the "Circular Ride" route to the ledge and directly up the wall (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mordor
Through the crack cutting the middle of the S wall to the ledge. Traverse right around… Rock Climbing
1
Malá hradba
Up the middle of the small wall, easily, to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Malá hradba
In the left part of the valley wall, up a small overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malá hradba
Overhanging crack n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Malá hradba
Up the N small wall and further along the 'Articulated' route to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Malá hradba
Up a weathered edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malá hradba
Up the W edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malá hradba
Up the middle of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Malá hradba
Up a small corner and a small crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Malá hradba
Up the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Malá hradba
From the valley, up a double crack to the top. Rock Climbing

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