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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3
Levý sektor
By an articulated edge and a small corner (bh), by a gently sloping edge freely upwards. Rock Climbing
?
Levý sektor
Rock Climbing
?
Levý sektor
Rock Climbing
5-
U kamenolomu
Left of route „Kamikaze“ via 4 bh n. v. Rock Climbing
6
U kamenolomu
Via the slab (3 bh) to the ledge, over an overhang (bh) and a crack or wall (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6+
Levý sektor
From the left side of the edge via 7 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing
7+
Karel
In the left part of the J overhanging wall above (bolt) and diagonally right up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
U kamenolomu
Left edge to the balcony and via 2 bh of the route „Envious Hunters of Fours“ n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
U kamenolomu
Start 3m right of the prominent edge via a slab over 2 bh to the balcony and directly… Rock Climbing
6-
U kamenolomu
Center of the slab via 5 bh n. v. Rock Climbing
7+
Karel
Middle of the V-valley overhang above (bolt), wall and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Mostní pilíř
From the northern (or southern) chimney in the cave under the roof. To the north and via… Rock Climbing
3
Terč u Špičáku
Right edge of the plateau wall to the summit.
5
Terč u Špičáku
In the middle of the NE wall via a partially overhanging wall to the summit.
4-
Terč u Špičáku
Left valley edge via a balcony to the summit.
3
Terč u Špičáku
Via the crack and wall to the right in the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Terč u Špičáku
Left on the plateau side via balconies to the summit.
5
Terč u Špičáku
In the middle of the SW wall via a partially overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Západní
Rock Climbing
2
Stěna vpravo
Short edge (bh) u. h. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna vpravo
By wall (bh) u. h. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna vpravo
Hand crack (K) u. h. Rock Climbing
2
Studený masiv
Into the corner (bh), through it between the 'Kostka' to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Studený masiv
Up the wall (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Studený masiv
Along the edge (bh) and steps into the corner, through it (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Studený masiv
Through the corner (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Studený masiv
Right from the Main Pillar up a smooth wall and higher along the edge to the top (7 bh). Rock Climbing
3
Studený masiv
Up the stepped wall (3 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
From the sloping slab from (bh) right up the wall (2 bh) to the ledge. Up the wall (bh)… Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
From the clock upwards and down to the edge, then along it (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing

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