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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

6
Studený masiv
Through the hollow (2 bh) under the overhang. Below it, right to the edge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Studený masiv
Up the wall (bh, K), right (2 K). To the edge and up the wall (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký soudný kámen
Left of "Bokovka", up an overhanging wall via the 3rd bolt to a balcony with a tree. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Studený masiv
Through the corner to the balcony and up a smooth wall (kr, bh, 2 sk) to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Velký soudný kámen
From SW, via an articulated corner to a platform and an articulated slab to a large… Rock Climbing
6
Velký soudný kámen
In the left part of the massif, up the wall into a prominent crack, then finally through… Rock Climbing
8
Velký soudný kámen
Right of the route "Eternal Humility", up an overhanging wall via 5 protections to the… Rock Climbing
4
Malý soudný kámen
Up a prominent dividing corner and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Sudička
Up the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Velký soudný kámen
Right of the "Bokovka" crack, up an overhanging wall via 6 protections to the summit of… Rock Climbing
6
Malý soudný kámen
Start as the valley route, then left along the edge via 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malý soudný kámen
Right of the corner, via a crack running to the right to a platform with a bolt, then up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Malý soudný kámen
Right of the large corner, up a slab over an overhang, right via a crack with a bolt, a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malý soudný kámen
Right of Rampe's Corner, over an overhang and a slab via 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malý soudný kámen
From SW from the gully, up a slab into a break below an overhang. Left to a ledge (bolt)… Rock Climbing
5+
Malý soudný kámen
In the fall line of the large pillar, up the wall and over an overhang with a bolt to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malý soudný kámen
In the center of the South face, up a small wall section and further right from an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Malý soudný kámen
To the right in the valley wall, via cracks into a recess and right onto a ramp. (trees).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Malý soudný kámen
In the center of the South face, in the fall line of an indistinct pillar, over 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malý soudný kámen
From the platform (trees) left to a bolt, via a fine crack left to the "Horses Gee-up"… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Malý soudný kámen
All the way to the right from the slope, over small pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Proklatec
Overhanging wall n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Spare Route
3
Potoční skála
Directly on the pillar n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Proklatec
Valley edge n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Stěna hájského potoka
Rock Climbing
2
Stěna hájského potoka
Rock Climbing
7
Stěna hájského potoka
Rock Climbing
7
Stěna hájského potoka
Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna hájského potoka
Rock Climbing
6+
Stěna hájského potoka
Rock Climbing

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