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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

6-
Blatenské dvojvěží
On the west tower, left in the west wall over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
4
Blatenské dvojvěží
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Blatenské dvojvěží
Via an indistinct edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
Přeskok
Blatenské dvojvěží
Leap/traverse from the Ohnisková massif to the Blatenské Twin Towers. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+
Blatenské dvojvěží
On the south side of the west tower over a large overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Opozdilec
Through the middle of the valley wall (bolt) under the overhang, over it (sling) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Opozdilec
From the uphill side via cracks over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Studánka
Approach via the right edge of the rounded small valley wall and continue along it to the… Rock Climbing
4
Studánka
Through the corner crack to the flake and easily to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Soví hrad
From the plateau over the blocks to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Soví hrad
Through the corner in the left part of the rugged S wall to the ledge and then another… Rock Climbing
3
Vohnout
Along the first edge of the inclined valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Soví hrad
To the right of the normal route into the crack, through it over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Soví hrad
In the narrow SE wall, via the left crack over 1 bolt to the ledge, then via a small wall… Rock Climbing
6+
Čtyřhlavá
Through the crack in the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Čtyřhlavá
Through a narrow crack to the right of Maty's Way to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřhlavá
Through the corner in the S wall to the balcony and along the small pillar-like fragments… Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloudice
Up the S wall to the ledge and to the right using a small crack (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Velbloudice
Up the NW wall to a sloping ledge and up a structured small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Velbloudice
Through cracks to the right of c. Saboteur to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Velbloudice
From the NE via small falcon's cracks over 1 bolt to a ledge, left to the edge and around… Rock Climbing
4
Vosí věž
From the plateau corner, traverse left to the end of the ledge, cross over into the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hráč
Through the valley crack and wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vosí věž
Through the corner in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3+
Vosí věž
Through the Falcon's crack to the right of the plateau corner. Rock Climbing
4
Hráč
From the plateau to the summit. Rock Climbing
5-
Drak
Through a narrow chimney left of the cave. Rock Climbing
4
Drak
Through the middle of the narrow S. wall by a crack to the bolt c. Steps, then further to… Rock Climbing Damaged Route
3
Drak
Through a crack in the right part of the East wall of the western pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Drak
Through a prominent narrow crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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