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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4-
Drak
Through the chimney in the E. wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+
Drak
To the right of the large chimney in the east wall via a crack (added bolt) and a wall (3… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Drak
Through the center of the W wall over slabs to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Drak
From the foreground rock briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zadní mechová
Via the NE edge over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Drak
In the left part of the wall, a distinct indentation on the left to the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Damaged Route
5
Zadní mechová
In the left part of the valley wall below the crack with a prominent stone at its… Rock Climbing
4+
Drak
From the right, around the wedged boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Drak
Through the corner from the SW to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Přední mechová
In the middle of the upper/plateau wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Přední mechová
Right on the plateau wall via the wall and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Zadní mechová
Via the NW corner (sling) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zadní mechová
Via the double crack over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zadní mechová
Via the double crack in the left part of the upper/plateau wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Přední mechová
Left in the valley (E) wall via the wall (2 bolts) below an overhang, using a sokolík … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Přední mechová
Via the edge along a small fissure over a bolt to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing
7
Přední mechová
Right in the valley wall diagonally left and over the overhang into a crack and corner… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Velký kohout
Via the SW edge over 4 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Velký kohout
Via the wall left of the Vyhlídková Edge (Viewpoint Edge). Rock Climbing
6
Velký kohout
Via a crack in the W wall over two bolts below an overhang with a prominent crack, from… Rock Climbing
6+
Velký kohout
Via a crack in the W wall over two bolts below an overhang, further via a crack over the… Rock Climbing
3
Velký kohout
Via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Velký kohout
Via the crack left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Velký kohout
From S. via a gangway to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Velký kohout
Via a crack over the 2nd bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Velký kohout
Up the middle of the pillar and further via cracks to the platform, left into a crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Velký kohout
Via cracks (protection) to the summit (loose/brittle). Rock Climbing
5
Velký kohout
Via a wide open crack over 2 bolts to the saddle to the rappel anchor, from there via a… Rock Climbing
5
Velký kohout
Via the overhang and along a small crack over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý kohout
Round corner in the left part of the valley wall (piton) Rock Climbing

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