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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

1
Kalecká stěna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kalecká stěna
By a shallow corner over the overhang and a crystal wall into the blueberry bushes. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Kalecká stěna
By an overhanging crack from the path, higher up by a recess. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Kalecká stěna
By an overhanging wall from the path to a ledge, from the right along the edge (rivet) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kalecká stěna
Similarly to route "Unfinished" to the ledge, then by the wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kalecká stěna
By a smooth wall in the fall line of the spruce tree to a ledge, traverse left and easily… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Kalecká stěna
By a half-chimney, higher up by a crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5-
Kalecká stěna
By an overhanging edge to a ledge, by the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Kozí (JV) pilíře
N is from the other (right) side of the small pillar. By corner crack to the platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5
Kozí (JV) pilíře
At the very end of the wall by a crack to the platform (group). By a chimney corner… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
By a chimney crack (behind the tree) to the platform, upwards right or vertically. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Kalecká stěna
By wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Along the pillar (group, rivet), then over the pulpit, or vertically. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
By a double crack upwards on the wall (group) to its end. Then by a left crack (wedge) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the pillar to the left of the 'Májové' corner along a fine crack over rock and bolt to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
4+
Kozí (JV) pilíře
A crack runs to the left of the prominent corner. Up it to the sloping platform and over… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Kozí (JV) pilíře
A distinct corner formed by the right-hand (lower) pillar on its left side. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
By chimney in the left side wall of the pillar to its top. Then by a wall as 'Sunday'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
To the right of the Kapsář route up a smooth corner, higher up a crack to a platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Kozí (JV) pilíře
About 3 m to the right of 'Kozí', up the crack (rock) onto the sloping platform, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Easy terrain to the terrace below the left (higher) pillar. Up the blunt edge to the bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+/9-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the wall of the small pillar, to the right of Kozí c. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
From the platform across the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Ďáblova kazatelna
A double crack descends down the (SW) wall under SK, which disappears in the lower part.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
To the right in the (W) wall along the edge to the top. (1 ring, 1 bolt) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the steep wall of the left pillar along the crack (rock) briefly to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
In the right part of the wall under the overhang. Up to the crack, from the right into… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Up 2 m to the right of 'Invalidní'. Across, over rock to the ledge, up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
To the small platform like previous routes or by recess from the right. In the right part… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
The start is in the right part of the wall. Easy terrain in the fall line to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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