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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5-
Jižní stěna
Up the pillar as 'Dome'. Above the first boulder, move to the left into the shallow crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the lower overhang, a narrow pillar rises from the wall, which in the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Start is directly up the wall below the prominent overhang, which is in the lower part (S… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Jižní stěna
Under the overhang the same as 'Squire's Route'. Traverse under the overhang (boulder) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Jižní stěna
Directly under the overhang and to the bolt. From the bolt directly into the indistinct… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Jižní stěna
To the right under the lower overhang of the Rock Castle. Traverse to the left under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
?
Jižní stěna
Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Start the same as 'Old Route' to the prominent corner. In the left part (S) of the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Briefly chimney to the right of 'Koutová' onto the ridge. (2 bolts) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4-
Jižní stěna
Through the shallow groove on the left edge of the wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
2
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
The Courtyard is bordered on the right side by the mighty crenellations of the Rock… Rock Climbing Route on sun
2
Jižní stěna
Through the deep depression at the left end of the wall, to the place where 'Hřebenovka'… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Start to the right of the 'Old Route'. Onto a step and then up a corner, in the upper… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Chimney between the side wall of the Overhanging Pillar and the right wall of Bilanina's… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
see statement of the summit commission: Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Deep in Bilanina's Cave, climb the wall or chimney upwards under the wedged boulder, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
To the left of the rock hollow is a long, narrow pillar. The route leads directly along… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Roughly upwards. In the left wall of the Courtyard are rock hollows. The ascent leads… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
At the very end of the Courtyard, under the roof of the Overhanging Pillar, there is a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Central pillar, to the left of the route 'Under the Rappel'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4-
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Where the Overhanging Pillar touches the wall, a crack falls down its left side. Follow… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Central pillar between the routes 'New Left' and 'New Right' over a boulder and two bolts… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +2
3
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
In the left wall of the Nadvoří (Courtyard) there is a chimney that is finished with a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
The route leads through a shallow depression to the right of 'South'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní pilíř
To the right of 'Lovecka' (Hunting route), there is a vertical, narrow crack (fissure) in… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
To the right of 'Hornicka' (Mining route) there is a recess in the wall, through which a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up the prominent corner in the fall line of the pillar (over 2 added rings) upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up the corner like 'Old Way', but then over an overhanging crack left from the corner … Rock Climbing Route on sun
11
Pravý jižní pilíř
Via 'Lovecka' (Hunting route) up to the level of the overhang. Step down onto the top of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Pravý jižní pilíř
To the left of 'Teplicke' via 2 rivets upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2

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