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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up left or center, but most often to the right under the balcony. From the balcony then: … Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
In the place where the right wall of the amphitheater transitions into the Right Southern… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Slightly overhanging crack left from 'Variant stredem' to the platform, wider crack left… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Wider corner crack to the tree on the next platform, straight up the crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up to the ledge, through the left crack to the next ledge, and from there through a hand… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
The middle of the wide pillar that emerges approximately from the middle of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
At the entrance to the amphitheater, in the right wall, is a prominent wide crack ending… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Crack along the edge, left from 'Wide Crack', to a ledge (belay). Along the edge over a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
To the right of 'Midnight', over a sling to a ring. Over the overhanging edge and up the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Through the corner to the right of 'Wide Crack' over a small bulge (sling) to the balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Through a recess (sharp corner), left from the striking corner of the 'Midnight' route,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
In the right part of the amphitheater, about 10 m below 'Skobova cesta' (Skoba's Way)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
A few meters below 'Luk' (Arch), a thin crack runs in the wall, along which there are… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Up the wall via bolts to the 2nd ring of the 'Rose for JL' route. Rock Climbing Route on sun
7-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
To the right of 'Luk' (Arch) route, briefly through a corner (sling) and right across the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
To the right below 'Skobova cesta' (Skoba's Way) is a large boulder, on whose top two… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
The route leads through a crack that intersects the right wall of the chimney. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Up the right corner of the chimney under the bulge into a wide crack. Through the crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
From the yellow break, go straight up. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
From the 2nd large rock, traverse the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
In the upper part, directly up the right crack up the wall (to the right of the pillar). Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend the wall where it touches Skoba's Hole. About 15 m up the wall to the 2nd large… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Traverse up the wall of the pillar, to the right of the route "Change", via three rivets… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
At the end of the left wall of the amphitheater (left of Skoba's Hole) and to the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Behind the pillar, towards the inside of the amphitheater, there is a recess in the lower… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend on the edge of the pillar in the back of the amphitheater. Rightwards downwards… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend from the block to the wall of the pillar, around two rivets to the cracks in the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
To the right of 'Stolen' at the end of the amphitheater is a high, perpendicular pillar,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Through the recess in the middle of the prominent, approximately 40 m high pillar, under… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Up the left edge of the pillar via 3 rivets. To the top of the Summit Book (30 m). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3

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