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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

6-
Západní
Overhang (bh), around the tree from the left and up the slabby wall to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Západní
Crack in the right corner (bh), around the tree from the right and further to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Západní
Wall at the left edge over the bulge and up the slabby wall to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Špačkárna
Start at the first route from the right, hand traverse along the ledge behind the edge of… Rock Climbing
6
Špačkárna
Straight up the crack in the middle of the wall (3 bh) to the rappel. Interesting chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Špačkárna
Second from right, by crack to the ledge to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Špačkárna
From the fore-rock up the wall (bh) to the ledge and left to the 2nd bolt of the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Špačkárna
First from right, by chimney in a finger crack onto the ledge (bh) and to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Špačkárna
Start to the right of the chimney in the middle of the wall, directly over the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Špačkárna
At the left edge over 3 steps (3 bh) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Špačkárna
On the ledge to the first bolt, by slab (bh) to the corner and by wall (bh) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Špačkárna
Start at the crack, dynamic move to the ledge (bh) and straight over the top wall (bh) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Špačkárna
Start as a chimney in the middle part of the wall (1st bolt), left and directly over rock… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Špačkárna
Start on the left edge, onto the ledge and traverse right to the wall corner and from… Rock Climbing
5
Kostka
In the right part of the wall (2 bh) u. h. Rock Climbing
4
Kostka
Middle wall (2 bh) u. h. Rock Climbing
4
Kostka
By crack (bh) u. h. Rock Climbing
4
Kostka
At the edge (2 bh) u. h. Rock Climbing
3
Studený masiv
Up the wall, higher through a small crack (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Studený masiv
Through a small corner (bh) to the 2nd ledge. Through a narrow crack (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Through a short corner and slab (3 bh) and then the actual hand crack (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Initially up the wall, further over steps (3 bh) into the corner. Through the corner (bh)… Rock Climbing
2
Studený masiv
Through the corner (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Studený masiv
Up the main, longest pillar (4 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Down a sloping slab (2 bh) to the clock. Through the overhang into the corner and through… Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Into the hollow (2 bh) to the overgrown sloping platform, right and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
4
Studený masiv
Easily to the balcony (K). Down to the edge and up the middle of the narrow wall (2 bh)… Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Right from the balcony up the wall into the corner and through it (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Through the overhanging corner (2 bh) to the ledge and then up the actual corner to the… Rock Climbing
4
Studený masiv
Through the hollow (bh) to the ledge. Up the wall (bh) to the top. Rock Climbing

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