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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5-
Levý sektor
Via the prominent edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Levý sektor
Via the second slab to the right of the prominent edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Levý sektor
Via the slab to the right of the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7-
U kamenolomu
Via the slab in the left part of the massif n. t. Rock Climbing
5+
U kamenolomu
N left of the prominent corner. From the platform to the curved slab, further via 4 bh n.… Rock Climbing
5
Umyvadlo
Along the left valley edge via a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Umyvadlo
Via the crack (slings) in the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Umyvadlo
Through the middle of the left wall via a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Umyvadlo
Along the right valley edge via 2 bolt hangers to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavní masiv
First route from the right, via the vertical wall (3 bolt hangers) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3+
Hlavní masiv
From the fore-rock via the wall (bolt hanger) next to the route 'Koutek' to the rappel. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
3+
Hlavní masiv
From the fore-rock from the tree directly up the wall (bolt hanger) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
3+
Hlavní masiv
From the fore-rock via the corner to the rappel on the right. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
2
Hlavní masiv
In the right part of the massif, from the fore-rock via the crack in the valley wall to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Hlavní masiv
From the fore-rock via the vertical edge and small corner (2 bolt hangers), to the right… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5+
Hlavní masiv
In the right part of the massif, via the fore-rock and the edge (3 bolt hangers) in the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4+
Hlavní masiv
Access from the upper corner to the fore-rock, via the vertical wall to the left (3 bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Hlavní masiv
In the right part of the massif, via the lower edge over 2 bolt hangers and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Hlavní masiv
Stepped corner near the route 'Pro Dášu' (common bolt hanger) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Hlavní masiv
Flat wall near the right edge, vertical wall to the belay on the terrace. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4+
Hlavní masiv
Through the middle of the slab and the vertical wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
5-
Hlavní masiv
Wall to the left of the corner via ledges and steps to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
4
Hlavní masiv
Right part of the distinctive pillar in the lower part of the massif. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4+
Hlavní masiv
Start right next to route Pandrhola along a thin crack (cam) into an open corner below a… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5+
Hlavní masiv
Left part of the distinctive pillar in the lower part of the massif. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
4+
Hlavní masiv
Start on the left side of the pillar in the center of the Main Massif, down a broken wall… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4+
Hlavní masiv
About two meters right of the Dařbuján route. Along an indistinct edge and then up a… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5-
Hlavní masiv
Up the gently sloping finger crack in the left part of the slab (2 bh) and directly to… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5-
Hlavní masiv
From the left corner over the small slabs (5 bh) to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
4+
Hlavní masiv
Through the angular corner and further like "Five Slabs"? (from 3rd bh) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1

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