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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

10-
Mordor
Boulder route on the valley wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Menhir
Start of the right part of Menhir. Through the left part of the overhang over a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Menhir
Through the corner in the N wall n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Menhir
Via a short overhanging valley wall (bh) n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Menhir
Via the left valley edge n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Menhir
Via an overhanging wall from the "bivouac" briefly n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
1
Malá sfinga
Through the middle of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malá sfinga
From the edge into the small chimney and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malá sfinga
Through the wall in the corner at the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malá sfinga
To the left on the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Křižník
Up the overhanging valley edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Křižník
Left of the chimney, up a short edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Krystal
From the corner between Vr(c)hcáby and Krystal via an overhanging edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Krystal
Up the middle of the W wall along a broken crack to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Krystal
Up the middle of the valley wall to a horizontal crack and over the overhang (bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
3
Krystal
Up an indistinct edge between the 'Wasp Irritation' and 'Path of Lit Lights' routes and a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Krystal
Left of the 'Autumn Corner' route, directly up the wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Krystal
Along the NE edge over two pinnacles to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Hlava
By a small wall and a small corner freely upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Hlava
By a small edge and a small corner freely upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Střední sektor
By the fourth prominent slab freely upwards. Rock Climbing
5-
Střední sektor
Third slab to the right of the prominent corner. Rock Climbing
5-
Střední sektor
Second slab to the right of the prominent corner. Rock Climbing
7
Levý sektor
Via the overhanging boulder and slab n. v. Rock Climbing
5-
Levý sektor
Along the prominent edge and via the slab n. v. Rock Climbing
9-
Levý sektor
Rock Climbing
5+
Levý sektor
Via the third slab to the right of the prominent edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Levý sektor
Rock Climbing
6-
Levý sektor
Via the wall over the overhang and slab n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Levý sektor
Via the broken wall, higher up the slab n. v. Rock Climbing

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