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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Sfinga
From the gap between the Sarcophagus and the Sphinx by the left part of the S wall (bh)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Sfinga
Completely to the right in the S wall by a crack between an attached rock block and the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Sfinga
To the right in the S wall over an attached rock block, directly by a slab (bolt; shared… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Sfinga
Through the middle of a prominent overhang in the S wall (bh) and a slab to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6
Sfinga
Completely to the right in the S wall by a zigzag crack and the wall near the edge (2 bh)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Sfinga
By a crack in the middle of the S wall below a prominent overhang and a slab to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Sfinga
To the right of the route Misty Noon over the ledge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Sfinga
To the left of the route Jarys' Idea by a small wall or crack into a niche and the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Sfinga
In the middle of the S wall by a smooth wall and a small dihedral to a small shelf (bh),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7
Sfinga
By the wall over the shelf and along the ledges over two bolts to the summit. Protection… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Sfinga
In the left part of the S wall by a narrowing crack to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Sfinga
Left in the S wall by a small wall section directly to the spikes and n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Sfinga
Completely to the left in the S wall by a small wall section to the ledge and over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Sfinga
Traverse along the ledge and further along the Short Excitement route n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Sarkofág
Via the Gingerbread House route to the 2nd bolt, directly up the wall over the overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Sarkofág
Right in the S wall by a distinct crack receding to the right n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Sarkofág
Right in the valley wall by the corner under the beak (!) and around it from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Sarkofág
Via the Breath of a Dead Lover route under the beak, right onto the ledge, left up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Sarkofág
Through the middle of the shingle-layered valley wall along a crack (bh) to a ledge (bh),… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
Přeskok
Sarkofág
From the belay bolt on the Sphinx, traverse to the Sarcophagus. Rock Climbing
3
Sarkofág
From the NW edge left over the shelf (bh) into the corner and by that n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Sarkofág
Along the NW edge below the summit head (bh) and over the overhang n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Sarkofág
From the gap between the Sarcophagus and the Sphinx into the corner and by that n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Pavéza
Through the middle of the "pavéza" (bh) and right to the edge and along the Ťapina route… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Ostruha
Via a sharp edge to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Ostruha
Right of Viktor the Wall Cleaner by the wall section n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ostruha
On the S wall via cracks and fissures n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ostruha
Through the middle of the S wall along the pedestal n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ostruha
To the left onto the Panenská ridge along a crack running diagonally right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ostruha
On the SW wall, start under the overhang, then further n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2

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