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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5+
Vyhlídka
Via the right edge below the large ledge into the corner to the 1st bolt, along the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídka
Approach via a prominent corner, left over 1 bolt to the ledge and over 2 bolts boldly to… Rock Climbing
3+
Vyhlídka
Through a prominent corner in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka
In the middle below the large ledge, via a small pillar to 1 bolt, to the ledge to 2… Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka
To the right of the prominent corner to 1 bolt and via a small crack to the ledge to 2… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídka
Approach like No. 2 from 1 bolt to the right onto a small balcony and through the corner… Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídka
Directly over 1 bolt into the crack, through it below the summit block to 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídka
In the left part of the S wall over the inclined ledges around 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Smrž
Through the right part of the S wall over the tooth, further left via a small wall to the… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídka
Via the short S wall of the summit block. Rock Climbing
2
Smrž
From the upper side briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Smrž
Through the crack in the valley wall to the balcony and then a crack over the overhang … Rock Climbing
3+
Smrž
From the North, via the corner to the right below the top (piton); also possible to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Schovanka
Through the crack in the left part of the S wall to the ledge and then another crack from… Rock Climbing
2
Schovanka
From the plateau side, a short corner to a step and then easily to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Schovanka
Through the plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velbloud
Through the chimney in the lower part of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Velbloud
Above the exit of Širočina is a short chimney, through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Velbloud
Through a wide crack to the right of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bukvice
Via a short crack in the W wall (small wall) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Přední mechová
Start on the right side of the valley wall diagonally right via the N wall (2 bolts)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Bukvice
Via a small crack left to the balcony to the ring, then via a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Trpaslík
Access like route Podfuk, then left edge over the rivet to the summit. (Podfuk without… Rock Climbing
6
Trpaslík
Overhanging plateau wall over the rivet from the left to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Trpaslík
Left in the valley wall over small pinnacles (2BH) and further freely to the summit Rock Climbing
4
Trpaslík
Traverse from left from the plateau over BH into the valley wall and along the E edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Trpaslík
From the valley over the rivet to the rivet of the "normal route" and freely to the summit Rock Climbing
4
Trpaslík
Traverse from the right over the flake on the valley wall to the BH of route no. 1, then… Rock Climbing
5
Varta
Rock Climbing
6
Slovanská kopa
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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