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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Sfinga
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+
Sfinga
Up the wall via two bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sfinga
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3+
Sfinga
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Sfinga
Via a stem/opposition and a small crack/arete to the head of the Sphinx. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Along the short upland side of the pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Through a small cave under the overhang, up it (rappelling ring) along grassy steps to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Severní stěna
Left of Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret) via a crack over a slab (40 m) under an overhang. To… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-
Severní stěna
Up the pillar via 3 rings and 3 bolts (7/7+ RP) to the belay. To the right above the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
The route leads along the same pillar as "Velikonoční" (Easter), but from the right side.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
From the lower ramp, a clearly visible pillar rises, from whose left crack a birch tree… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
The start is between "Radova variant" and "Velikonoční". Higher up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Unknown" indentation via a crack (approx. 25 m) and then a dihedral… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-
Severní stěna
Via the corner crack between "Špalková" and "Velikonoční" up to the height of the pulpit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
In the left part of the wall, traverse through a corner and a small chimney around a tree… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
Via a prominent corner roughly in the middle of the (North) face to the pulpit. From… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
To the pulpit as "Špalková" or "Radova variant". From the pulpit, the route continues… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
Where the North Pillar meets the North Face, there are approximately 50m high rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Severní stěna
Right below the hollow (rock basins) of previous routes, via a crack to a platform … Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
Via the right crack of the rock hollows over an overhang into the window in the North… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
6
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Bílinský Hanger", above the ramp, there is a white overhanging… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Severní pilíř
Start from the right side of the pillar, via a crack to the balcony (belay station). Then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6-
Severní pilíř
The first major rise of the North Pillar is cut by two cracks. The start is where the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Severní pilíř
About 10m below the North Chimney entrance, on the left side of the North Pillar, follow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Severní komín
Up the chimney to the platform (formerly VK). Further over small walls and grassy ledges… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
3+
Stěna
Through the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3+
Stěna
Left part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Stěna
From left to right along the ramp and over a slight bulge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3+
Bivaková
Right part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3+
Bivaková
Left part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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