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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3+
Bivaková
Left part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
?
Žihadlo
Approach from the foot of the massif by any route to the belay ramp. Through the middle… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
?
Skurut
Start on the valley slope briefly via the "Shortcut by the tree" route to the ledge (self… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
6+
Tümmelstein u Rašovic
Through the middle of the slab, completely to the right on the massif (right of the … Rock Climbing Vertical wall
?
Rytířovský masiv
Start in the right part of the massif via a smooth, broken-out corner (self-protection)… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
7
Tümmelstein u Rašovic
Via the overhanging edge directly to the top. Crux around the seventh meter. Descend… Rock Climbing Overhang
8
Tümmelstein u Rašovic
To the right of the corner up the overhanging wall, first using the corner, then slightly… Rock Climbing Overhang
Přeskok
Věžka
From the massif's balcony above the small tower via an overthrow or jump to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Věžka
Left edge of the valley around the tree, up over a small overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
2
Věžka
From the West side onto the balcony and up a short wall with a dynamic move to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Věžka
Along the right valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Hlavní masív
From the left, up the V-shaped wall, along the rib (3 x bolt hanger), higher over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Hlavní masív
To the right of the start of the route "Dlouhý kout" (Long Corner), through the corner,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6-
Hlavní masív
To the left of "Šestka" (The Six), up the chimney/gulley to the ledge. To the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Hlavní masív
Through the corner with (likely) a lime tree to the slab, over it under the overhang … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Hlavní masív
Directly up the wall in the right part of the massif. (ring + 1 bolt hanger) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Hlavní masív
Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavní masív
Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní masív
Var. Sokolíkova 2 Rock Climbing
4-
Hlavní masív
Rock Climbing
6+
Hlavní masív
To the left of the Děčínská route's start, up the wall via a ring to the pulpit. (By aid… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4+
Hlavní masív
Far left via a notch to the ledge, then a small chimney/corner around the bolt to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hlavní masív
Through the corner in the left part of the massif (rivet) onto the ledge, over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Hlavní masív
Var. Second 5; N directly up the wall to the right of the "stairs". Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní masív
Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavní masív
Rock Climbing
6+
Hlavní masív
In the W. face to the right of the Jirkovská route, start with a breakthrough to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Hlavní masív
Rock Climbing
3-
Puklá věž
Up the east wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Puklá věž
Up the middle of the short north wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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