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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Levý masiv
Above the overhang to the right n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun
4
Levý masiv
To the right into the Krásná Samota (Beautiful Solitude) route, by the wall over 3 rivets… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý masiv
In the center of the S face, a crack under the distinct overhang and a crack to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun
4
Levý masiv
To the left of the Splašený jeptišky (Frightened Nuns) route, by the wall (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun
3
Galerie
In the left part of the wall (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
3
Galerie
By the corner to the right of the gully (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
4
Levý masiv
Completely to the right, by the pillar (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
3
Galerie
Through the center of the wall by the crack (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
3
Galerie
In the right part of the wall along the crack (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
5
Galerie
To the left of the chimney, by a smooth slab (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
4
Prostřední masiv
Through the center of the valley wall, a distinct crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Prostřední masiv
To the left of the gully, by the wall along the edge (3 bh) n. v. Note: The route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4
Hlava
By corner (bh of Cibule route), over overhang (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
4
Hlava
To the right of the gully, by wall and corner (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
5
Hlava
In the center of the wall, a distinct corner and small roof to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
2
Hlava
In the right part of the wall over the pillars and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
6
Pravý masiv
To the right of the Medium route, up the wall over the overhang (3 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Pravý masiv
To the left of Paprička (Pepper), a vertical start below the small overhang, across it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Pravý masiv
More or less like Poslední samuraj (Last Samurai) under the overhang and directly under… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kozí vrch
Via Zlatý důl (Golden Mine) to the 3rd belay station, traverse right into the gully and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vejce
Rock Climbing
4
Vejce
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vejce
Rock Climbing
6+
Vejce
From the valley, up the wall under the overhang and over it with a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Náhorní
In the SE wall along the edge and to the right to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5+
Náhorní
Through the deep corner. Rock Climbing
5
Náhorní
Shallow corner to the left of the deep corner c. Wet overhang. Rock Climbing
4
Náhorní
Uphill short wall. Rock Climbing
4
Zelený masív
In the upper part of the massif, wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Zelený masív
Along the oblique crack n. t. Rock Climbing

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