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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

6
Hlavní masív
Start roughly in the middle of Vyhlídková stěny under the overhang running to the right.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Hlavní masív
Like Chomutovská cesta up to the 2nd rivet, then left over the overhang (rivet) under… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní masív
Start in the left part of Vyhlídková stěna into a sharp cut. After a few meters to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Hlavní masív
From the horizontal cracks directly to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlavní masív
From the platform to the right of Omylka, up the corner S-shaped crack, not traversable. Rock Climbing
8-
Hlavní masív
From the platform, slab across two rivets to the third abseil point. (set from above) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlavní masív
From halfway up the Ferryman's starting platform, step left into the corner, then along… Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní masív
From the end of the Ferryman's starting platform, straight up the wall, higher to the… Rock Climbing
7-
Hlavní masív
Up the right part of the Vyhlídková stěna slab, over two rivets to the abseil c. Dream… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Hlavní masív
Overhang to a slanting corner (Bh), then slanting corner (Bh) to the top of the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-
Hlavní masív
Same as Bloody Mary to the 2nd Bh. From it, left along the wall to the rivet c.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hlavní masív
Through the center of the valley-side wall of 'Převozník' to the sloping ledge and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7
Hlavní masív
Through the crack along the valley-side edge of 'Převozník' to the slab and up its right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlavní masív
Up the face along the left edge of 'Převozník' n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní masív
Start about 2m to the left of 'Pepíkovská cesta'. Up the vertical wall over the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Hlavní masív
Same as the original route up to the piton, and then straight through the center of the… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní masív
Through the center of the west face of 'Převozník' to the ledge. Traverse right and along… Rock Climbing
1
Hraběcí skála
Up the left corner of the east face over steps to the 'Normal Route' and then to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
1
Hraběcí skála
From the south side, rightwards through the chimney over cut rock steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3-
Hraběcí skála
Through the center of the east face, over steps below a slight overhang and through its… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Hraběcí skála
Through the center of the south face, via the right corner to the balcony, then left and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4-
Hraběcí skála
Up the right edge of the V-shaped wall over steps below the overhang, then via a crack to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Matterhorn
From the right up the mossy wall n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Matterhorn
From the valley along the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Sirotek
In the corner n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Sirotek
Along the edge over the step n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Sirotek
Up the overhanging wall n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Sirotek
Up the left side of the massif n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Sirotek
Up the massive break and the wall above it n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Bludný kámen
Rock Climbing

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