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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3
Netopýr
Up the wall to the left of the corner to the detached flake (hourglass) and from the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3+
Netopýr
North, to the left of the edge of the overhang, up into the recess and then easily to the… Rock Climbing
1
Netopýr
From the southwest, easily to the summit via steps. Rock Climbing
4
Okurka
Through the center of the East face (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Okurka
Through the center of the narrow valley wall (5 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Okurka
Up the left valley edge (2 bh) n. v.
1
Okurka
From the upper side n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Velbloud
Up the narrow valley wall (9 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Velbloud
Up the prominent corner in the East face (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Ukulelelembo
Two meters to the left of the upper edge, up the West face (bh) n. v.
4
Ukulelelembo
Through the center of the West face (2 bh) n. v.
4
Ukulelelembo
Two meters to the right of the right valley edge, up the West face (2 bh) n. v.
5+
Frankenjura
Via the left valley edge (3 bh) a. s.
5
Frankenjura
In the V-shaped wall to the left of the beech tree (2 bh) a. s. Delicate traverse to the…
4
Frankenjura
In the right part of the valley wall, to the right of the chimney via a faint indentation… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Frankenjura
In the middle part of the valley wall via a wall to a small corner (bh) and an…
5-
Frankenjura
Far right in the valley wall via a smooth wall (bh) under the overhang, over it (bh) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
EC věž
In the left part of the valley wall (2 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
1
Šárka
From the upper side freely a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Šárka
Through the center of the West wall (2 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Šárka
To the left of the passage between Šárka and Vejce, along the wall (2 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Šárka
In the left part of the valley wall along the overhanging crack (2 bh), wall to the edge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Šárka
On the left in the valley wall over the overhang (3 bh) and a slab (2 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Šárka
On the right in the valley wall via an overhang (2 bh) and along the edge (2 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Šárka
On the right in the valley wall over the overhang (3 bh) and along the crack (2 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Šárka
In the left, lowest part of the massif, by a corner (bh) to a platform, through a funnel … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Koule
In the right part of the overhang, wall a. s. Route in shadow
6
Šárka
In the left part of the massif along the rib (bh) and along the crack (3 bh) a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Neklidný pstruh
Through the center of the massif near the overhanging edge (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Neklidný pstruh
Up the wall to the right of the left chimney (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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