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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

7
Neklidný pstruh
Over the overhang between the right chimney and the Smrt krásného oddenku route (4 bh) n.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Neklidný pstruh
In the right part of the massif, up the narrow W wall (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Vejce
Up the overhanging wall (4 bh) to the left into the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Neklidný pstruh
In the right part of the massif, up the narrow overhanging pillar (5 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Vejce
Up the wall to the left of the edge (5 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Letiště
Traverse from right to left. Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+
Vejce
To the right of the passage between Šárka and Vejce, up the overhanging wall (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9+
Vejce
To the right of the Bloc Battle route, up the wall (5 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Letiště
Through the center of the small massif directly to the break in the massif n. v. Fixed belay Route in shadow
6
Letiště
In the left part of the small massif directly n. v. Fixed belay Route in shadow
8-
Letiště
Traverse from left to right, without using holds in the upper part. Fixed belay Route in shadow
7/7+
Letiště
In the right part of the small massif with dynamic moves n. v. Fixed belay Route in shadow
4
Kašpárkův masiv
In the valley wall on the right near the edge (bh) to the platform (bh) and along the…
5-
Kašpárkův masiv
In the valley wall, a corner to the left of the edge, higher up the wall (bh) to the…
5
Nanověž
Center of the valley wall over the overhang (bh) and a sloping wall (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Mordor
Route in shadow
?
Mordor
Route in shadow
5+
Mordor
Route in shadow
5+
Mordor
Route in shadow
5+
Mordor
Route in shadow
7+/8-
Mordor
Route in shadow
?
Mordor
Route in shadow
5+
Mordor
Route in shadow
5
Zvon
By crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Zvon
By a wide valley-side edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Josefinino sedátko
Along the edge of a lying pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Velká polední skála
From the right slightly to the pulpit in the middle of the East face. From it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+
Varhany
In the right part of the valley wall, difficultly over the overhang and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Varhany
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Varhany
Up the right crack to about halfway and then straight up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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