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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

7
Kapucín
Start in the north face. Traverse along the sloping ledge to the left to the first bolt.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kapucín
Start from the north side under the Hood. Climb the small wall along the NE edge to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Kapucín
The pulpit is a platform above the right edge of the V-shaped wall, near the so-called… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Kapucín
Start on the SE edge. Up the narrow S wall, later traverse right into the E wall and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Kapucín
A massive ramp borders the V-shaped wall in its lower part. From the ramp, go around a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Jeptiška
Center of the upper NW overhanging wall over two bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jeptiška
Along the western edge over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jeptiška
To the crack directly via the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Jeptiška
Start like "Old route" under the roof and right up the chimney crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Jeptiška
Start on the western edge. On the ball (short), right across the belly and crack (short)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jeptiška
Right of the route "Direct var. Southern route" over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jeptiška
Along the right downhill edge over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3-
Jeptiška
The start is in the corner in the middle of the NE wall. Under the roof (short), left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
?
Tojnarstein
Up the western slab to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tojnarstein
Through the center of the valley wall via a crack to a break near the bolt. Crack to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6-
Tojnarstein
In the right part of the valley wall (from the block), overhanging wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Hlavní stěna
Up an overgrown corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Hlavní stěna
Across the foreland in the right part to a sloping ledge and then up a vertical and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Koza
From the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Kůň
Up a sloping slab from the left side. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5-
Kůň
Up a vertical, then a sloping face to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Divoká věž
Start from a small cave in the foreland to a ledge below the tower itself, and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Divoká věž
SW short arête to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5-
Divoká věž
From the East along a prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Divoká věž
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Kostka
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Kostka
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kostka
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Kostka
Up the face along the fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Kostka
Through a corner, higher up a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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