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Climbing at Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku

129 routes
21 areas
1–8 grades

The rocks around Starý and Nový hrádek in the Prachov Rocks in Bohemian Paradise offer almost 130 routes on 21 towers – for example Pelíškova strážní věž, Pepička, Batoh, Pepík, Reakcionář and Hubertus. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 8.

Part of Prachov Rocks, Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku has 129 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 8. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Pelíškova strážní věž 13 routes Pepička 10 routes Batoh 10 routes Pepík 10 routes Reakcionář 8 routes Hubertus 8 routes Deštivá věžička 7 routes Věžička nového hrádku 7 routes Reakcionářka 6 routes Tříprsťák 6 routes Lužická věžička 5 routes Placička 5 routes Hopsinka 5 routes Mika (Brouček) 5 routes Pukavec 4 routes Bezslaňáková 4 routes Buková věž 4 routes Podloudník 4 routes Zarostlá věž 3 routes Cipísek 3 routes Masiv za Věžičkou Nového hrádku 2 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Buková věž
Up the chimney from the E to the summit.
7
Buková věž
From the left along the sloping ledge diagonally right to its end and up the wall via the…
Přeskok
Buková věž
By jumping from the SE fore-rock to the summit.
6
Buková věž
Up the left part of the wall along the SW edge to the ring and higher up the edge to the…
4
Cipísek
Up the edge to the summit.
Přeskok
Cipísek
From the SW, by jumping to the summit.
6
Cipísek
Up the N wall from the left to the shelf and right up the wall to the summit.
6
Hubertus
Along the edge via two rings to the sub-summit ledge and right to the summit.
7
Hubertus
Position yourself on the southeast edge and left into the crack. Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
From the ring of the "Old Route" right to the 2nd ring of the "Warm Hubert" route and… Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
Via the North Face route to the crack and follow it. Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
Directly from the ring. Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
Right part of the north face to the ring, onto the bench, left to the northeast edge … Rock Climbing
6
Hubertus
Up the wall (ring) to the ledge and via the "Monster variant" crack directly to the…
7
Hubertus
From the northwest, up the wall to the ring and along the crack. Rock Climbing
2
Pukavec
From the NE via the chimney to the top.
2
Pukavec
From the NE via a small chimney to the top.
4
Pukavec
Via the SE edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pukavec
Up the west edge to the top.
3
Placička
Rock Climbing
4
Placička
Up the northwest edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Placička
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Placička
By jumping from the summit of Pukavec to the top.
6
Placička
Up the north face below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Zarostlá věž
From the eastern edge. Rock Climbing
2
Zarostlá věž
Via the chimney from the east. Rock Climbing
7
Zarostlá věž
Up the south face to the ring and along the southwest edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Masiv za Věžičkou Nového hrádku
Rightward trending crack, higher step left and to the ring. Along the small crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Podloudník
Up the chimney between the edge and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Podloudník
Rock Climbing

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