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Climbing at Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku

129 routes
21 areas
1–8 grades

The rocks around Starý and Nový hrádek in the Prachov Rocks in Bohemian Paradise offer almost 130 routes on 21 towers – for example Pelíškova strážní věž, Pepička, Batoh, Pepík, Reakcionář and Hubertus. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 8.

Part of Prachov Rocks, Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku has 129 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 8. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Pelíškova strážní věž 13 routes Pepička 10 routes Batoh 10 routes Pepík 10 routes Reakcionář 8 routes Hubertus 8 routes Deštivá věžička 7 routes Věžička nového hrádku 7 routes Reakcionářka 6 routes Tříprsťák 6 routes Lužická věžička 5 routes Placička 5 routes Hopsinka 5 routes Mika (Brouček) 5 routes Pukavec 4 routes Bezslaňáková 4 routes Buková věž 4 routes Podloudník 4 routes Zarostlá věž 3 routes Cipísek 3 routes Masiv za Věžičkou Nového hrádku 2 routes
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7
Tříprsťák
Through the hand crack (ring) to the saddle between the summits.
3
Podloudník
Up the chimney between the edge and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Podloudník
Rock Climbing
3
Tříprsťák
Up the crack in the corner to the summit.
7
Tříprsťák
Up the wall along the crack to the ring, up to the pillar and along the rounded ridge…
7
Batoh
Up the right part of the wall along the crack and up the wall to the summit.
6
Batoh
Up the 'sokolík' (small pillar/feature), higher up the wall to the right to a crack and…
6-
Batoh
By stemming, up the 'sokolík' and the crack.
2
Batoh
Through the crack-chimney between the tower and Tříprsták.
3
Batoh
Up the edge.
2
Batoh
From the SE across the grassy SW wall of Tříprsták.
2
Batoh
From the S via a short chimney to the "Old Route". Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Batoh
Up the 'sokolíky' (small pillars/features) in the middle of the wall diagonally left to…
2
Tříprsťák
Up a short chimney and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Tříprsťák
From the SE to the summit.
7
Batoh
Up the crack to the summit.
6-
Tříprsťák
From the “Eight-finger Crack” upwards to the ledge and hand-traversing right along the…
Přeskok
Batoh
By jumping from Tříprsták to the summit.
3
Lužická věžička
By jumping from Hopsinka to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hopsinka
Up the middle of the wall to the crack and along it.
4
Lužická věžička
Via the West edge. Rock Climbing
3
Hopsinka
From the north via a crack to the summit.
3
Lužická věžička
From the right, up the wall to the ledge and left to the edge. Rock Climbing
7
Lužická věžička
From the northeast, by stemming and up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Hopsinka
Up the N edge to the summit.
5
Lužická věžička
Up the wall right to the West edge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hopsinka
Up the edge to the summit.
6
Hopsinka
Up the NW edge to the summit.
4
Pelíškova strážní věž
Right of the chimney to the forepeak and via the NW wall to the summit.
6-
Pelíškova strážní věž
Right of the chimney to the summit.

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