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Climbing at Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku

129 routes
21 areas
1–8 grades

The rocks around Starý and Nový hrádek in the Prachov Rocks in Bohemian Paradise offer almost 130 routes on 21 towers – for example Pelíškova strážní věž, Pepička, Batoh, Pepík, Reakcionář and Hubertus. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 8.

Part of Prachov Rocks, Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku has 129 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 8. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Pelíškova strážní věž 13 routes Pepička 10 routes Batoh 10 routes Pepík 10 routes Reakcionář 8 routes Hubertus 8 routes Deštivá věžička 7 routes Věžička nového hrádku 7 routes Reakcionářka 6 routes Tříprsťák 6 routes Lužická věžička 5 routes Placička 5 routes Hopsinka 5 routes Mika (Brouček) 5 routes Pukavec 4 routes Bezslaňáková 4 routes Buková věž 4 routes Podloudník 4 routes Zarostlá věž 3 routes Cipísek 3 routes Masiv za Věžičkou Nového hrádku 2 routes
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7-/7
Věžička nového hrádku
Through the center of the NE wall via the ring to the summit.
6-
Věžička nového hrádku
Along the edge via the ring to the summit
3
Věžička nového hrádku
Short wall and summit.
2
Věžička nového hrádku
Along the edge to the summit
6
Mika (Brouček)
From the plateau side from the shelf up the wall and through a short notch with flat…
5
Mika (Brouček)
Danger
3
Mika (Brouček)
Traverse left to the edge and follow it.
2
Mika (Brouček)
6
Deštivá věžička
Přeskok
Bezslaňáková
By jumping from the Rainy Turret to the top.
6
Bezslaňáková
Up the right part of the valley face to the top.
3
Bezslaňáková
Up the valley face to the left to the edge and along it to the top.
2
Bezslaňáková
Up the middle of the north face to the top.
4
Deštivá věžička
5
Deštivá věžička
Rock Climbing
3
Deštivá věžička
From the boulder via the left upper edge. Rock Climbing
2
Deštivá věžička
From the boulder via a crack in the center of the NE face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Deštivá věžička
Rock Climbing
7
Deštivá věžička
Approach directly from below to the crack in the old route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pepička
Up the small wall to the left of the chimney to the top.
5
Pepík
Via the narrow chimney/gully and traverse in the ledge to the left and through the…
1
Pepička
From the east to the balcony and up the north face to the top.
4
Pepička
Via the chimney, higher up the left crack.
4
Pepička
From the fore-summit via the west edge.
3
Pepička
Up the middle of the wall through an indentation and a crack above the top.
7
Pepík
Via the narrow chimney/gully and a small crack in the north face to the west edge and up… Rock Climbing
2
Pepička
Via the chimney to the top.
3
Pepička
Up the blunt edge to the top.
4
Pepička
Up the SE edge and the wall to the top.
2
Pepička

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