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Climbing at Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku

129 routes
21 areas
1–8 grades

The rocks around Starý and Nový hrádek in the Prachov Rocks in Bohemian Paradise offer almost 130 routes on 21 towers – for example Pelíškova strážní věž, Pepička, Batoh, Pepík, Reakcionář and Hubertus. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 8.

Part of Prachov Rocks, Skály v okolí Starého hrádku a Nového hrádku has 129 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 8. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Pelíškova strážní věž 13 routes Pepička 10 routes Batoh 10 routes Pepík 10 routes Reakcionář 8 routes Hubertus 8 routes Deštivá věžička 7 routes Věžička nového hrádku 7 routes Reakcionářka 6 routes Tříprsťák 6 routes Lužická věžička 5 routes Placička 5 routes Hopsinka 5 routes Mika (Brouček) 5 routes Pukavec 4 routes Bezslaňáková 4 routes Buková věž 4 routes Podloudník 4 routes Zarostlá věž 3 routes Cipísek 3 routes Masiv za Věžičkou Nového hrádku 2 routes
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8
Pelíškova strážní věž
Up the wall left of the "North Chimney" directly to the summit.
6
Pelíškova strážní věž
Up the wall to the summit.
6-
Pelíškova strážní věž
Right of the chimney to the summit.
7
Pelíškova strážní věž
Through the center of the wall to the summit
1
Pelíškova strážní věž
Through the chimney to the forepeak and via the "Old Route" to the summit.
6
Pelíškova strážní věž
Through the center of the wall
6-
Pelíškova strážní věž
Along the edge to the summit
2
Pelíškova strážní věž
4
Pelíškova strážní věž
2
Pelíškova strážní věž
2
Pelíškova strážní věž
In the left part of the wall freely to the boulder and via the South edge to the summit.
7
Reakcionář
From the ring diagonally right and over the overhang upwards to the summit.
3
Reakcionářka
6-
Reakcionářka
Right part of the wall to the summit
1
Reakcionářka
North wall to the balcony and on to the summit.
2
Reakcionářka
West wall to the summit
4
Reakcionářka
2
Reakcionářka
Through the center of the wall
8
Reakcionář
Up the wall (ring) to the East edge and follow it to the summit.
7
Reakcionář
Via the north right crack. Rock Climbing
6
Reakcionář
Directly up the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Reakcionář
Through the center of the north face and diagonally left via the chimney/corner. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Reakcionář
Through the center of the wall to the ring. Up to the holds and to the summit.
6
Reakcionář
From the west balcony via the crack in the overhang. Rock Climbing
4
Reakcionář
From the center of the south face, right to the southeast edge and follow it. Rock Climbing
7
Mika (Brouček)
Along the right valley edge to the ledge, traverse to the center of the wall and directly…
5
Masiv za Věžičkou Nového hrádku
Through the corner and the right crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Věžička nového hrádku
Up to the overhang, over it and along the crack in the edge to the summit.
Přeskok
Věžička nového hrádku
Jump from the forepeak to the small summit.
6
Věžička nového hrádku

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