Svatý Jan pod Skalou in the Bohemian Karst offers more than 170 limestone routes – mainly on Stěna pod křížem and Dušičková stěna, with more in the Solvay quarries and a few smaller sectors. There are sport and trad routes with fixed protection and your own cams; grades from 2 to 9.
Part of Bohemian Karst, Svatý Jan pod Skalou has 170 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends, Sport Climbing.
Rules
- The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
- Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
- Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
- No climbing on wet rock.
The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
6
Plotna zelených skřítků
Approach as for Ypsilon to the ring, then slightly down upwards to a piton, through a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Direttissima
Start to the right of the route "Vzpomínka na Pšendu", 2m left of a narrow deep hole at… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7-
Konec klasiků v Čechách
newly re-equipped with glued-in bolts Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5
Tvrdý beat
The ascent follows a large corner intersecting the wall right below the large cave on the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vzpomínka na Pšendu
Start in the fall line of the large corner, intersecting the wall to the right below the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3+
Moravské pole - var
Below the summit overhang traverse down and up a small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5
Křížová cesta - Větrný pilíř
From the small cave with boulders, left up the slab under the overhang (piton), right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Křížová cesta
Left of the fall line of the large cave below the summit of the wall briefly upwards and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Psycho
Start on the path left of the massive pillar, over the overhang to a piton, diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Amulet
Start from the path in the fall line of the massive overhanging corner. Over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Moravské pole
Start on the left edge of the Small Wall by the trees. Upwards and then diagonally right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Černý deštník
Start about 8m to the right from the steep ledge, up the crumbly wall and along the down… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8-
Petrklíč
Climbing 'Petrklíč' (8-) on the 'Malá Dušičková stěna' is a true test of a climber's… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pelčákův kruh
Start roughly in the middle of the Malá Dušičková wall along an inconspicuous rib, from… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8-
Sgt. Peter´s lonely hearts club band
Malá Dušičková stěna, though perhaps not the most frequented crag, hides some true gems,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zelený čtvrtek
Climbing 'Zelený čtvrtek' (Green Thursday) on the 'Malá Dušičková stěna' (Small Soul Wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Bílá sobota
Climbing 'Bílá sobota' (7+) on the iconic 'Malá Dušičková stěna' in the Czech sandstone… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Bohoušův couloir
Up the corner (gully) on the right side of the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7+
Vodspoda
First ascent with protection from the route 'From Below', sling under the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Pohádka o pejskovi a kočičce
Approach in the fall line of white-colored slabs in the pre-summit section. Through a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Booga - boo
Approach 10m right of the previous route. Up into a slabby corner, through which under an… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Cesta poštolek
Approach about 5m right of Blues about stability. Up the pillar, later along the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Labská cesta
Approach shared with the Kestrel Route up to the 1st ring, from there traverse 2m down… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Blues o stabilitě - jednoskobová var
From the 2nd ring in Blues about stability, down into a vertical corner, through which up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Blues o stabilitě
Start right of the previous route. Up a small wall into a friable small corner, past a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Aprílová cesta
Start approximately in the center of the Wall below the cross. Up a shallow corner over a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2