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Climbing at Svatý Jan pod Skalou

170 routes
4 areas
2–9 grades

Svatý Jan pod Skalou in the Bohemian Karst offers more than 170 limestone routes – mainly on Stěna pod křížem and Dušičková stěna, with more in the Solvay quarries and a few smaller sectors. There are sport and trad routes with fixed protection and your own cams; grades from 2 to 9.

Part of Bohemian Karst, Svatý Jan pod Skalou has 170 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends, Sport Climbing.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Dušičková stěna
From the left side of the bivouac overhang, up a vertical slab along a piton, a rivet to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Dušičková stěna
The crack branches off at the start of the prominent corner of Křemílek's Way. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Dušičková stěna
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Dušičková stěna
Start with a short ladder about 10m to the left of the bivouac overhang in the middle… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Dušičková stěna
Meters right from start point No. 2, via the Smooth Wall to the corner crack (piton) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Dušičková stěna
To the left of the cave, past two Bh (bolts), diagonally left to the piton in the corner… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Dušičková stěna
in the central part of the Friends' Path from T. R. to the right and then back Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Dušičková stěna
From the left foot of the wall diagonally to the right along traversing ledges (bushes)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
7-
Dušičková stěna
Approach the same way as the Pomlázková route. From the left base of the wall, diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Dušičková stěna
Start like the Pomlázková route to the band of overhangs. Slightly from the right across… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Stěna za klášterem
Secured with 9 pitons, 2 rings, bring hexcentrics, first ascent in classic style with… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6-
Rameno Trojúhelníka
From the bolt right downwards to the beginning of the crack (hourglass), follow it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Trojúhelníková stěna
Directly up over the roof of the overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Trojúhelníková stěna
Approach as for the previous route, but continue diagonally right upwards along ledges to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - pravá část
From the 2nd ring, down the ledge and traverse the wall further to below the overhangs,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Approach either from the lowest point of the wall via an indistinct depression to a ledge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Křížová stěna - střední část
From the 2nd ring of the April route, right upwards and along a ledge into a large corner… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
Start as with the original route, but instead of left, slightly right upwards over a…
4
Vaňasova stěna
From the small cave, it is possible to traverse down and in an arc back right above the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vaňasova stěna
Right behind the massive pillar, up a small corner and up a small wall over a piton… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Stěny u Kačáku
Start directly opposite the wooden bridge by the tree. Up a prominent overhang directly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7
Malá Dušičková stěna
Climbing 'Tmavý převis,' a captivating grade 7 route on the Malá Dušičková stěna, is a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna za klášterem
Approach right of the previous route under a wedged block. Over the block directly up to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Křížová stěna - levá část
From the 3rd ring, diagonally down above the cave and through a shallow recess directly…
5
Stěna za klášterem
Approach right of "Rum Penalty" in the fall line of an overhanging crack. Directly over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Stěna za klášterem
Over a small overhang left of "Saxon Trick" into a small corner and through it under a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Stěna za klášterem
Left part of the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Stěna za klášterem
Approach right of "Christ's Summer" in the fall line of a corner ending in a crack.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7+
Stěna za klášterem
Center of the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Stěna za klášterem
In the right part of the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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