Svatý Jan pod Skalou in the Bohemian Karst offers more than 170 limestone routes – mainly on Stěna pod křížem and Dušičková stěna, with more in the Solvay quarries and a few smaller sectors. There are sport and trad routes with fixed protection and your own cams; grades from 2 to 9.
Part of Bohemian Karst, Svatý Jan pod Skalou has 170 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends, Sport Climbing.
Rules
- The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
- Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
- Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
- No climbing on wet rock.
The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
4
Dušičkový převísek
Start approx. 4-5 m next to route Majdalena. Up a small corner under a small overhang,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Zábavný koutek
Start at the left edge of the cave. Up a sloping, overhanging crack (hexes) and along… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Sváteční cesta
From the right edge of the cave directly up to a ledge, up a smooth small wall over two… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Severočeská spára
Start in the fall line of the wall's summit. Up a narrow crack (hexes) to a wedged block.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Obouchané hlavy
Start approx. 8m to the right in the fall line of prominent overhangs, up the corner over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Hrana sviní
Start at the left edge of the wall. Up the notch, then along the edge to a grassy balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Nástupová var
From the second third of the starting ramp straight up (piton) to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
9-
Utržený Splachovadlo
Start next to the latrine and directly through the overhanging wall into the slab to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Silvestrovský kout
Access via a prominent chimney gash between the 5th pillar of Dušičková Wall and the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Visuté zahrady - var. Nástupu
To the right of the start of Bolavý zub through the right part of the overgrown recess up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Bolavý zub
Start 5m to the right of the previous route. Up the brittle corner formed by the spur … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Visuté zahrady
Start behind the right edge of the wall up the chimney onto the spur protruding from the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
9
Princ Charles
Access the Lady Di Wall (8 bh) to the summit, starting from the right of the path. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Chatařova siesta - var
From the clock under the first circle, traverse left upwards to the piton and diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Chatařova siesta
The start is in the lowest part of the Dušičká wall, about 9m to the right of the cave.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7
Lady Di
N at the lowest point of the wall, across two bolts and a piton slightly left, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Vánoční cesta
Start like the Dušičková route to the platform under the overhanging corner. From there… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7-
Berounský rychlík
Climbing "Berounský rychlík" (7-) on Dušičková stěna is a quintessential experience for… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Dušičková cesta
Start from the highest foot of the wall to the right up the steps to the traversing ramp… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Dušičková cesta - přímá var. B
From the ring on the Dušičková route up along the crack to the exposed block, further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Dušičková cesta - přímá var. A
From the platform below the overhanging corner (sling), directly upwards and via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Dušičková spára
The route follows the corner crack bordering the black smooth slabs in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Dušičková spára - var. B
Traverse downwards until the band of overhangs ends, and then back traversing right to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Dušičková spára - var. A
Directly over the overhang and via the recess to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8
Pokora
Pokora leads through the center of the smoothest slab to the right of the black band of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-
Sen noci svatojánské - var. Honzovy skoby
From the circle of the 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' route directly up the slab over 2bh … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Sen noci svatojánské
Start at the same place as the previous route. Straight up into the inconspicuous groove… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8/8+
Černý balet
The first route on a prominent slab in the center of the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Nová smlouva
Climbing 'Nová smlouva' (New Covenant) on Dušičková stěna is a significant challenge for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Slunovrat
From the left side of the bivouac overhang, up a vertical slab along a piton, a rivet to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1