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Climbing at Vrabinec

91 routes
8 areas
1–7+/8- grades

Vrabinec in the Central Bohemian Uplands offers more than 90 routes on the rocks around the castle ruin – most on Hlavní and Malá věž, Pevnost, Střední věž and Střední jehla. There are sport and trad routes with fixed and textile protection and cams; grades from 1 to 7+/8-.

Part of Central Bohemian Uplands, Vrabinec has 91 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 7+/8-. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay, Friends.

Rules

OVK: - No creating routes from above without prior OVK approval - No using stable protection for slackline - No using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the administrator and OVK

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed from June 21st to April 19th for ČHS members on the towers Main Tower, Central Tower, Small Tower and Central Needle. Nature Conservation Document: Declaration of Vrabinec Nature Reserve 1993, Conservation Authority: Administration of the České Středohoří Protected Landscape Area.

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3
Hlavní věž
In the right part of the East face, via a crack to a platform and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Hlavní věž
Start like Edge - a variation to a prominent ledge and from there diagonally left upwards… Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní věž
Through a short wall (bolt) to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní věž
From the north to the right into the corner and via it to a large platform and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavní věž
To the left of the Edge route's start, a slightly overhanging slab, higher up along the… Rock Climbing
3
Zelený pilíř
Through the middle of the slabby wall along the crack to the top. (2 drilled hooks). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zelený pilíř
Along the edge of the small pillar directly from the path to the top. (2 drilled hooks). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Střední jehla
Up the small wall about 4 m to the right of 1) to a small platform and further along the… Rock Climbing
5
Střední jehla
In the (E) wall, left of the chimney, up the overhanging wall to a slanted platform, then… Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
To the right via a small corner crack to the 2nd bolt hanger on the SE route. Rock Climbing
5
Střední jehla
Along the (E) edge to the summit (3 bolt hangers) Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
Along the edge to the summit Rock Climbing
4
Střední jehla
To the right in the (S) wall along the crack. Ascent to the summit (2 bolt hangers) Rock Climbing
4
Střední jehla
Up the wall from the passage between the wall and the masonry to a slanted platform, then… Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
Start on the edge by the old masonry, then follow it to the summit (2 bolt hangers) Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
From the (S) wall of boulders, traverse left and up the crack between the summits. Rock Climbing
4
Střední jehla
Up the wall directly below the rappel to the summit (1 bolt hanger) Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
The middle plateau face leads a corner. Through it between the summits. (1 drilled hook) Rock Climbing
3
Střední jehla
To the right in the plateau face from the rock block of the middle face to the top (2… Rock Climbing
3
Střední věž
To the right of the stone wall, up the face via steps (2 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Střední věž
Up the corner to the stance and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Střední věž
From the SW edge of the tower along a ledge, which later disappears, diagonally right… Rock Climbing
6
Střední věž
Center of the W face under a prominent roof with a crack. Overhang into an indistinct… Rock Climbing
7+
Střední věž
Follow the Farářova neteř (Priest's Niece) route up to the 2nd bolt and then directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Střední věž
To the right in the W face, up the wall and higher up a corner to the top (5 bh) Rock Climbing
7+
Střední věž
Overhanging SW edge over 4 Bh. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
1
Střední věž
From the plateau side opposite the Middle Needle, along ledges to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Střední věž
From the end of the ledge at the right edge of the prominent wall, through an indentation… Rock Climbing
4
Střední věž
From the left edge of the overgrown ledge, up the wall along the edge (4 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Střední věž
Descend the gully between the Small Tower and the Middle Tower to below the SE face. From… Rock Climbing

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