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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Na borku
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední
Left part of the valley wall directly to the "clocks". Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední
(UIAA 4) Up the upper wall diagonally to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Poslední
(UIAA 3) Left part of the upper wall and directly along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední
(UIAA 4) Down the valley wall diagonally towards the "clocks" and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Varta
From the passable valley chimney via a crack, chimney, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Varta
Crossing on the plateau side and over blocks to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Závěrečná
Rock Climbing
4+
Závěrečná
Rock Climbing
5
Závěrečná
(UIAA 5) Along the East ridge and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Závěrečná
Rock Climbing
2+
Závěrečná
In the left part of the SE wall, up the small crack over the overhang and via the chimney… Rock Climbing
5+
Závěrečná
Rock Climbing
5+
Šmudla
Up the NW edge past the 1st ring onto the ledge, traverse left to the 2nd ring and to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šmudla
Rock Climbing
5+
Šmudla
(UIAA 5) Up the small gully near the SE edge to the ring. Up the wall to the notch and… Rock Climbing
2+
Ríša
(UIAA 2) From the SE outcrop to the right onto the E side of the tower and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mates
The start is to the right of the chimney of the 'Narrow Way' route. Up the chimney crack … Rock Climbing
4+
Mates
(UIAA 5)From NW right under the overhang above the crack and up the face to the ring. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Mates
(UIAA 8-)In the valley face along the left edge (1st ring) directly into the hole and… Rock Climbing
5
Mates
(UIAA 6-)Start below the right part of the S face, up the crack to its end, then up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Mates
Rock Climbing
4-
Mates
(UIAA 4)Through the SE chimney to the fore-summit and via the 'Narrow Way' to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mates
Rock Climbing
6-
Mates
Via the 'Good Night Gully' route to the fixed belay, traverse left and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mates
(UIAA 7)Start below the SE ridge and up the face to the 1st ring. Along the edge straight… Rock Climbing
4-
Mates
(UIAA 4)Through the NW chimney. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mates
To the right of the 'Good Night Gully' route, climb the face to the 1st ring and then the… Rock Climbing
3
Veverka
Right part of the NW face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Veverka
(UIAA 5+)Left part of the SE face to the ledge and then along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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