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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Mates
(UIAA 5+)From the boulders on the NE side, traverse into the face towards the fixed belay… Rock Climbing
2+
Matýsek
North ridge top. Rock Climbing
5
Matýsek
Rock Climbing
5+
Matýsek
Rock Climbing
4+
Veverka
(UIAA 5)From the N face and crack to the ledge and face to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lama
Rock Climbing
3
Matýsek
Along the West edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lama
Rock Climbing
4-
Lama
Rock Climbing
3
Lama
To the right of the E edge via a chimney and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Lama
Rock Climbing
5+
Lama
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Trosečník
(UIAA 7)From the fore-rock descend right into the valley face to the 1st ring. Long… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Trosečník
(UIAA 7+)Start in the left part of the valley face. Up the wall over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Trosečník
Through the center of the west face over the overhang to the 1st ring and up the wall … Rock Climbing
6
Trosečník
From the balcony of the Větrná hraná route, traverse along the overgrown ledge left into… Rock Climbing
4+
Trosečník
(UIAA 5)Start in the terrain on the NW fore-rock. Along the receding NW edge to the ring,… Rock Climbing
5+
Trosečník
(UIAA 6-)From the inter-tower onto the balcony and right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Trosečník
(UIAA 5)Start opposite the Malířská route on Velbloud. Up the wall over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
4-
Trosečník
(UIAA 4)From the ring right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Trosečník
(UIAA 4)From the ring traverse left to the ring of the Větrná hraná route and up that to… Rock Climbing
5+
Trosečník
(UIAA 4)Along the ledge of route No. 1 down and then up the wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Trosečník
(UIAA 2)From the inter-tower traverse along the ledge down and up the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velbloud
(UIAA 5)From the accidental side by a chimney between the tower and Trosečník, aid… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Velbloud
(UIAA 8-)From the accidental side via a gully and the wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Velbloud
To the right of 'No Problem' up the wall slightly to the right past two rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
Rock Climbing
6-
Velbloud
Rock Climbing
4+
Velbloud
(UIAA 4)Start in the terrain below the NW side of the tower, along the N edge and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
(UIAA 6-)Left part of the SW face and diagonally right to the hourglass. Route No. 3 to… Rock Climbing

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