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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Neznámá
(UIAA 7-) In the left part of the NE face, a crack leads to the pillar to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing
2+
Neznámá
(UIAA 2) Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Neznámá
(UIAA 6+) At the right valley edge, up the cracks to the end, to the right 3m by stemming… Rock Climbing
6
Neznámá
At the north edge, up the crack and the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rokoko
(UIAA 6-)At the NW edge through a system of cracks and gullies, higher up through a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rokoko
(UIAA 8-)Description missing Rock Climbing
9+
Rokoko
(UIAA 9)Description missing Rock Climbing
4+
Podzimní
(UIAA 5) From the cave, a crack to the forepeak. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podzimní
(UIAA 7) Right from route no. 1, wall to the clocks and over the overhang (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní
(UIAA 5+) Along the E edge to the ledge, right wall over the overhang and through a gully… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní
(UIAA 5) From NE along the edge to the pillar. Traverse and crack to the forepeak. Wall n… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Podzimní
The ascent is from the gully between Podzimní and its northern pillar. Corner to the… Rock Climbing
3
Podzimní
(UIAA 3) From a sudden gully through a chimney up to the clocks in the tower wall.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Podzimní
Left of the north edge up the face to the 1st ring. Up the face over the ledge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4+
Podzimní
(UIAA 5+)Along the west edge and up the face to the left to the ring. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Podzimní
Along the rounded north edge over K to K of the NW route. Up that n.v. Rock Climbing
6-
Podzimní
(UIAA 6+)Up the face into the recess and left to the west edge. Up the face (ring) and… Rock Climbing
6
Kužel
(UIAA 6+)From K up the face to the left to K of the NW face. Rock Climbing
3
Podzimní
(UIAA 3)Via the crack to the fore-summit and up the face n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Kužel
Left of the west edge up the face (2 rings) and diagonally right past the edge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podzimní
(UIAA 7)Left of route No. 1 via the crack over the overhang to the hourglass, left up the… Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Kužel
(UIAA 7-)Via the crack of route No. 4 to the end, down the face to the ring of route No.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kužel
(UIAA 7+)From between the towers via Autumn Crack, higher up the face (2 rings) n.v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kužel
(UIAA 7-)Up the center of the valley face (ring) and to the right n.v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kužel
(UIAA 7)Along the S edge and up the S face (ring) n.v. Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Kužel
Up the center of the valley face over 3 rings into the gully of the Valley Direttissima… Rock Climbing
5+
Kužel
(UIAA 6)Along the west edge from the NW, along the left valley edge directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Kužel
(UIAA 6-)Along the E edge to the ledge and a crack to the end. Along the edge, identical… Rock Climbing
5
Kužel
(UIAA 6-)From the start of route No. 1 along the ledges in the NE face up to the ledge… Rock Climbing

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